Domaine de la Chapelle : La Chapelle 2006

Jaboulet-Aine’s flagship wine is their Hermitage La Chapelle (their most recent great La Chapelle is the still young and evolving 1990). The 2006 Hermitage La Chapelle is a good wine, although it is disappointing for this extraordinary icon. It offers a deep ruby/purple hue along with aromas of berry fruit interwoven with crushed rocks and cassis. While elegant and attractive, it is undernourished and lacking the gravitas and density one expects from this great name. I have previously documented the decline in quality at this estate following the tragic death of Gerard Jaboulet. That ended in the unexpected sale of Paul Jaboulet-Aine to the Frey family that has done such brilliant work at Bordeaux’s Chateau La Lagune, and are major shareholders in the superb Champagne house of Billecart-Salmon. No doubt they will resurrect the reputation and the quality of the Jaboulet wines, as this was the leading estate in the northern Rhone during the sixties, seventies, and eighties. The Freys have already made some dramatic changes, moving toward eliminating the negociant line of wines, and concentrating exclusively on estate bottled offerings. They own over 120 acres in the northern Rhone as well as 14+ acres in the southern Rhone. The following offerings reflect the recent changes and a work in progress, with the 2006s still under-performing (the Frey family was not in a position to do much in that vintage). The 2007s are clearly better, and I believe that in a few years, when the northern Rhone has its next great vintage, consumers will see a dramatic increase in quality as the new owners have already brought in the world-famous oenologist, Professor Denis Dubourdieu as a consultant. Any readers who have some of the old vintages of Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert in their cellars should be checking them out. The 1978 and 1990 are still brilliant wines, but neither the 2006 or the 2007 will invoke memories of those wines. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Tightly wound, with a core of braised fig, currant paste and coffee notes held in check by iron and tar. There's rather muscular grip for the vintage, and the long finish shows slightly taut tannins but is a bit shy on depth. Should unwind with cellaring. Best from 2010 through 2018. 2,250 cases made.

A little animal on the nose. Then sweet and salty Syrah with medium intensity. I wonder why such a mature vintage is available? But it’s fully developed and is not such poor value compared with some of these wines. (JR)

Glass-staining ruby. Powerful scents of red and dark berry preserves, smoked meat, violet and minerals offer impressive clarity and expand in the glass. Velvety in texture, with deep, liqueur-like red berry flavors, gentle tannins and a strong undercurrent of lively minerals. The smoky note repeats strongly on the lush, seductively sweet finish. Extremely appealing even now, but this really deserves a chance to sleep for at least another decade.

From an underrated vintage in the Rhône, the 2006 Hermitage La Chapelle is a beautiful, supple, layered wine that checks in behind the all-time greats yet unquestionably matches or surpasses most of the later 1990 and early 2000 vintages. Revealing a translucent ruby hue as well as a classic La Chapelle nose of smoked darker fruits, roasted meats, ground pepper, soy, and some classic Hermitage leather and obvious minerality, it’s medium to full-bodied, round, wonderfully textured, and balanced. It's fully mature today, and certainly won't be getting any better, but it has another 10-15 years of longevity.

Powerful and intense, a concentrated wine, but without the mid-palate grip or the silky tannins of the 2007. Fairly powerful, muscular structure. Spicy finish.