M. Chapoutier : Chante-Alouette 2018

Lovely, with a mix of fresh and dried peach, yellow apple and quince flavors, along with honeysuckle, salted butter and heather notes. The long finish has a nice tease of quinine for contrast amid the fruit. Drink now through 2030. 71 cases imported.

An array of complex layers lure you into the glass: an orchard of apple and pear, fresh lemon zest, quince, a squeeze of fresh pineapple, yellow lily and marzipan, underpinned by raw almond. The palate is complex, with an intense mineral layer topped with jackfruit, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Cellar well through 2030+ or enjoy now with rich, spicy dishes.

Lovely nose, like a freshly cut mango, with subtle tobacco and cigar notes behind. Full bodied, rich and powerful, displaying a touch of oatmeal and noticeable oak spice inlaid in the long finish. Already complex and showing development, this is deliciously ripe and approachable. Unlikely to be the longest-living Chante-Alouette, but it's enjoyably succulent and fleshy.

Marsanne. Tank sample. Tasted blind. Grassy nose with fresh apple and lemon giving plenty of vim and vigour. Dry, and with enough acidity to leave a cleansing finish. (RH)

The 2018 Hermitage Chante-Alouette Blanc just about always delivers incredible quality, and it sells for a fraction of the single vineyard releases. Classic Hermitage notes of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, acacia flowers, and spice all flow from this richer, beautifully textured, balanced Hermitage that has enough density and depth to keep for 10-15 years or more. It's well worth seeking out and I'd be happy with a case in the cellar.

Beautiful Marsanne ripeness on the nose, which remains fresh. The wine retains fine harmony, with less opulence and vinosity than the 2017. What makes the difference? Extra salinity and brightness!