M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2024

A tiny hint of copper to the colour. Savoury bay leaf notes come before the apricot and lead to a very intense palate, showing great salty drive and intensity, followed by lovely acidity. The oak is well-integrated and all is in great balance, with a flinty, smoky finish. A particularly impressive vintage of Le Méal blanc, it has the power of the site, but without excess alcohol or fat. Harvested in one pass this year, it usually takes between one and three passes, but the vineyard was homogeneously ripe.

Cask sample. A 2-ha parcel of old Marsanne vines – more than 50 years old – planted on alluvial soils with large pebbles over a deep clay base. Steep, south-facing slope. High Rhône terraces. Harvested by hand on 17 September. Whole grapes are pressed, and a moderate amount of SO2 is used. Light settling. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, mostly in demi-muids and barrels (85%, of which 10% are new) and stainless-steel vats (15%). Aged on lees for 11 months with some stirring. pH 3.62, TA 2.7 g/l (sulphuric). Certified organic and biodynamic. More spicy and savoury than Ermitage de l'Orée. Still with underlying pear and almond aromas and flavours. Broad, low in acidity but miraculously fresh, as only white Hermitage seems to manage. A big, full-bodied and balanced wine with plenty of weight and flavour but without heaviness. Sour, chewy finish with spice at the very end. Great texture adds to the impression of freshness but slightly warm at the back of the throat. (JH)

From the steep, south-facing hillside in the heart of the appellation, the 2024 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc sports a medium gold hue as well as gorgeous quince, crushed stone, white flowers, and blanched almond-laced aromatics. It's impressive on the palate as well, with beautiful concentration, medium to full body, integrated acidity, and a great finish. It's a serious wine in the vintage that deserves 4-5 years of bottle age and should keep for two decades. Drink 2030-2050.