M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2024

A sooty and savoury expression, this is showing ripe blackberry and a good sense of freshness. It’s full-bodied but not massive on the palate, and there’s a huge surge of tannin and fruit on the finish. This has real drive and intensity, great salty extract, and good length and balance too. A very traditional expression. Not as concentrated as some recent hot years, but lovely balance and freshness. Serious Hermitage structure.

Cask sample. Steep, south-facing slope. High Rhône terraces, rounded stones and loess on a deep clay base. The grapes were hand-harvested on 21 and 25 September. Vinification in small concrete vats after destemming. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and a moderate amount of sulphur dioxide is used. Maceration for 3 to 4 weeks. Ageing in casks and small wooden barrels for around 18 months. pH 3.68, TA 3.56 g/l (sulphuric). Certified organic and biodynamic. Black core with a smudgy purple rim. More floral than Les Greffieux, with notes of peony and violets, even a touch of vanilla, the intensity slightly subdued by a stony-mineral quality, which is even more marked on the palate. Dry, almost chalky tannins. A savoury, peppery darkness to the fruit on the palate. Dark and savoury like 70% chocolate on the finish. So refined but with underlying power. Pure, dark, savoury Syrah with a light floral lift and a long life ahead. (JH)