Billecart-Salmon : Vintage 2006

Wow, this has rich aromas of spiced mushroom and savory woody notes, along with hints of peach, melon, and candied orange rind, leading into light berry pastry tones – really complex and still unevolved. The palate is packed with expressive pinot characters of cherries and fresh mushroom flavors. Tannins frame and drive the wine, and a surge of central acidity keeps everything bright and fresh. Very satisfying Champagne here. Drink now and over the next decade; it has plenty to offer. Three-quarters of this 2006 comes from Montagne de Reims pinot noir, with the remainder chardonnay from the Côte de Blancs.

Light golden yellow; very fine mousse. Delicate nuances of red cherry, yellow plum, hints of caramel and white peach, a touch of baby banana. Juicy, round and creamy on the palate, discreet fruit expression on the finish, subtle orange echo, rather timid acidity, thus even as zero dosage it seems a little sweeter and more opulent than expected, discreet salty note on the back palate.

(Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Fr. 85.-) Delicate, fragrant, refined bouquet, yeasted dough, dark chocolate, pears. Elegant, finely structured palate with vigorous mousse, delicate fruit, fine, fresh, ripe acidity, long, full finish. 18/20 drink - 2026

Harmonious, refined and slender, a great success ready to drink.

Billecart-Salmon's style is dry, so an Extra Brut will be almost bone-dry. This wine is crisp and tight, bringing out grapefruit and citrus flavors and a steely, mineral character. It is still young, with freshness dominant, and needs to mature to blossom into a very fine Champagne. Drink from 2018.