Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 2023

Astonishingly dark in color and on the nose, with medicinal notes and blackcurrant; fleshy, with firm-grained tannins and plenty of spice, a spicy finish. Well done.

Quite dark coloured wine with blackcurrant, plum and some tar aromas. A robust palate reflects Pauillac power, but I sense a bit of tannic austerity. Tasted on a second occasion, and it was better, but on both occasions, it lacked the mid palate depth of the top Pauillacs in this vintage, but there is enough of a vinous nature to the wine, so let's see how it turns out after barrel ageing (35% new).

The 2023 Grand-Puy-Ducasse has a plusher bouquet compared to its Pauillac peers, though it manages to retain satisfying delineation, raspberry and blackcurrant mixed with tobacco and forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, well-judged acidity, moderate length with a minty finish. Drink over the next 15 to 20 years.

Flowers, currants, tobacco leaves, and a hint of espresso already pop in the nose. On the palate, the medium-bodied wine is fresh, fruity, exuberant, and creamy with good energy and lift in the mint-accented, refreshing finish. This should age for at least 2 decades with ease. The wine blends 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. Drink from 2030-2050.

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, brightening on the edge. Delicately floral, blackberries, black cherries, subtle herbal savoriness. Medium body, red cherries, subtle tannins, good freshness, mineral finish, offers uncomplicated drinking pleasure.

Open bouquet of blue berries, coriander and tobacco leaf. On the compact palate, a compelling tannic framework, underlying breed and a slightly rustic body. In the focused finish, the Pauillac tightens up and ends on wild cherry and sloe juice. Rounded.

Luscious black cherry and damson feel, showing reserve and austerity at this early stage. A clearly impressive, balanced and classically-trained Grand Puy Ducasse with cocoa bean, liquorice, crayon, mint, very much in the Pauillac signature. 50hl/h, Hubert de Boüard consultant since 2013, working with Philippe Nunes. Anne le Naour technical director, 30% new oak for ageing. Benjamin Cassoulet technical director. The first year in the new cellar with suspended triconic stainless steel vats.

Score: 93–95. The nose moves between the suave allure of floral aromas (iris) and the precision of perfectly ripe blue fruit. Notes of black licorice and earth add complexity to these refined aromas. The palate is flavorful and aristocratic, pure silk velvet, freshness, and tension. A serious wine, with juicy fruit and chewy tannins leading to a mineral, saline finish, all elegance and acidity.

A lovely aromatic, fruity nose with subtle breadth and fine complexity. It shows notes of wild blackberry and fairly ripe wild red berries, combined with hints of tobacco and nutmeg, as well as delicate touches of cubeb pepper and cardamom, with a subtle hint of fresh toast. The palate is fruity, offering juiciness, smoothness, freshness, good definition, roundness, precision, minerality, and a fine suppleness. It reveals notes of juicy/pulpy blackberry, roasted raspberry and, more lightly, fairly ripe wild plum, joined by hints of cornflower, star anise and tobacco, along with fine touches of smoke and cardamom, and a delicate hint of graphite and toast. Good length, sapid and velvety tannins. A fine underlying silkiness.

This is solid, with gently warmed cassis and plum reduction notes forming a dark and winey core, while singed alder, cold cast iron and tobacco lead notes fill in liberally. A cast iron accent then punches through to lengthen the finish. A touch burly, so cellar to let this settle in. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2027 through 2037. 13,000 cases made.

From the outset, the bouquet of Grand-Puy Ducasse highlights a real sense of precision. Cabernet naturally takes center stage, with nuances of blackcurrant and eucalyptus, along with subtle hints of graphite. Creamy on the attack, the wine shows an elegant, linear profile. It is not truly built around power—though it is certainly not lacking. Rather, it is the acidity, all the more structuring, that holds everything together, while the tannic energy supports its ageing ambitions. A new era is clearly beginning at Grand-Puy Ducasse, and it is delightful to see how the estate’s new facilities are managing to channel the potential of this Pauillac growth so well!

Logo on the cork: JL (Lafitte Liège) A lovely deep, purplish red. A discreet, fruity and straightforward nose. Delicate on the attack, silky mid-palate with a medium body; the wine finishes fragrant but lacks lift on the finish.