William Fèvre : Chablis Grand cru "Bougros" Domaine 2020

This is generally the richest, most fruit-driven grand cru bottling chez Fèvre, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is a wine of particular distinction. Exhibiting aromas of peach, citrus blossom, bee pollen and oyster shell, it's a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine that's ample but elegant, with racy acids and a long, saline finish.

From 4ha of vineyards, this is an easy introduction to Bougros Grand Cru. Acidity is well in check and the wine is generous, with 25% older wood used for maturation. Very nice weight and purity, minerality, and an extra layer of richness compared to the premier cru. Higher yields here than Fèvre’s other grands crus, except Les Clos.

William Fèvre owns six of the 15 ha of this vineyard and is therefore the biggest producer. One part is 4 ha with 60–70-year-old vines on the south-west-facing plateau. The deep soil gives a very approachable wine. The 2-ha plot lies on a steep, south-facing slope above the river and yields a more mineral, austere wine labelled Côte Bouguerots (see Goedhuis tasting notes). They produce two very different wines. This example comes from the plateau, where high vine training is needed. Yields have been reduced to produce wines with concentration. For Didier, this plot has improved the most. 45 hl/ha was a very good yield in 2020. High-toned with lots of acidity. A bit more body than the Preuses and impressive green fruit on the finish. A good wine for food, whereas the more delicate Preuses could be enjoyed without food. Juicy. Really gets the saliva flowing! (JR)

A ripe, round style, featuring peach, apple and citrus flavors accented by grassy meadow and finger lime, with a stony note seeping in on the lingering finish. Best from 2024 through 2036.