Château Tertre Roteboeuf 1988

A sleeper vintage for proprietor Mitjavile’s beloved Tertre Roteboeuf, the 1988 has a deep plum/garnet color and a gorgeous nose of earth, underbrush, cherry cough syrup, licorice, and caramel. It is full-bodied, very pure, ripe, with loads of concentration, yet good definition and structure. No, it is not as dense as the 1989 nor as flamboyant and flashy as the 1990, but this is a classic Tertre Roteboeuf that should continue to drink well for at least another 10–15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now–2015. Last tasted, 12/02.

One of the more balanced vintages for this pumped-up style. Complex aromas of berry, tobacco and chocolate, with a hint of spice. Full-bodied, with a rich, decadent palate and plenty of velvety tannins. Will improve with age but hard to resist now. — 1988 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2000.

Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf was a hot estate in the late 1980s and early 1990s but then lost some of its luster. I was lucky enough to find a bottle in Bordeaux at a small restaurant, from one of its first top vintages — 1988 — and it turned out to be a delicious bottle. It was still big and rich with lots of dried fruits and spice. Full-bodied and tannic. Shows that many 1988 Bordeaux are still beautiful and flavorful.

Deep garnet, concentrated at the core. Smoky bouquet, a hint of volatile acidity, then increasingly rich and dense, plenty of dried fruit, prunes, and licorice. On the palate, fleshy with a rich extract, classic Saint‑Émilion terroir aroma, finely sandy flow, lots of power and great length.

New arrival (16/20): ripe Amarena cherry nose, dark chocolate; spicy with hidden traces of volatile acidity. On the palate, noble bitterness, dark chocolate, cocoa with barely perceptible, firm-grained tannins. The similarly firm bitterness on the palate could also come from barrel wood not fully dried out. A double magnum 1995: powerful bouquet; almost like an ’82 (equally full-bodied), it shows drive yet remains closed. On the palate also dense, hard in the tannins, bourgeois; the tannins still seem too dry from the barrique “ordeal.” 98: deep garnet; richly filled in the middle. Smoky bouquet, a hint of volatile acidity, then becoming ever fatter and denser, lots of dried fruits, prunes and licorice. On the palate meaty, rich extract, classic St. Emilion terroir aroma, fine-sandy flow, plenty of power and great length (17/20). 01: still very dark color, yet with a fine orange rim. Dry nose reminiscent of a quite grand Tuscan; sun-dried tomatoes, prunes, a lovely fruit sweetness, tending a bit toward dryness. On the palate medium-weight, slightly firm-grained tannins that tie in with the active acidity, raspberry seeds; despite evolution, it still shows strict and sandy in texture. It will never develop charm, but it allows the claim that it will live for a long time. 17/20 drink – 2008

Deep, complex, fruity bouquet with raisin cake and black, overripe berries. Fruity, balanced and elegant palate with good tannins. Long, full finish. 18/20

Dark red color. Good intensity. Lively. Nose of medium intensity. Discreet. Fruity. Quite fresh. Hint of cedar. Soft attack on the palate, round and flavorful mid-palate. The wine develops with power and warmth once again, with a bit too much alcoholic strength, but overall it is long and well-proportioned. Drinkable.