Château Tertre Roteboeuf 1996

The 1996 Le Tertre-Roteboeuf is less sumptuous from bottle than it was from cask. Nevertheless, this is an outstanding wine produced in the telltale style of this well-situated hillside vineyard. The color is deep ruby, and the nose offers hedonistic notes of smoke, crème brûlée, roasted coffee, and chocolate-covered cherries. This medium-bodied wine is showing more structure, muscle, and tannin than I remember from cask. In fact, after the sweet aromatics and the initial burst of fruit on the attack, the wine seems to shut down, revealing moderate tannin on the very good finish. Unlike most vintages of Le Tertre-Roteboeuf, which can be drunk immediately, the 1996 requires 2–3 years of cellaring and should keep for 15–16 years.

Aromas of toasted oak, cedar and cigar, with hints of fruit. Medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a light finish. Drying out a bit. — ’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now.

Clearly maturing wine-red with brick and gently browning highlights. Intoxicating nose, primarily carried by a distinctly roasted, oaky sweetness, with pralines, nutty notes, a Nutella touch in the background. Juicy, very elegant palate, gianduja notes, light caramel, a sweetness and aromatics growing ever more erotic, ending in a kind of seductive wine cream. In this state of fascination, the wine should be drunk now – erotic, but not a classic.

97: Dark purple-garnet. Fragrant, sweet plum bouquet, dried fruits, freshly roasted coffee behind, dark caramel. On the palate, lots of charm, not too rich but nicely expansive, strongly supportive barrique, plenty of extract, the smoky hint of a very great Burgundy on the finish. 18/20 2002–2020 Clearly maturing wine-red with brick-red and gently brownish highlights. Headily aromatic nose, primarily driven by a distinctly toasty, oaky sweetness; behind that praline, nutty notes, a Nutella touch. Juicy, very elegant palate, gianduja notes, light caramel, the sweetness grows ever more sensual and the aromatics end in a kind of seductive wine cream. If you want to experience it in this fascination, drink it now. Not a classic, but an eroticist.

Dark red color. Medium to good intensity. Slight evolution. Nose of medium intensity. Discreet. Candied fruit. With aeration, candied but simple. Soft attack on the palate. Round structure but quickly turning rough and unpleasant. Completely dried-out finish.