Château Tertre Roteboeuf 1989

Deep ruby/purple with slightly more intensity to its hue than the 1990, this full-bodied wine still has a very roasted character intermixed with sweet chocolate Raisinet-like flavors. Sweet, overripe cherries also make an appearance in this thick, juicy, yet structured, rather powerful Tertre Roteboeuf that is aging more slowly than its more renowned sibling, the 1990. This is a classic wine that should continue to repay cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020.

A blockbuster of a young wine, oozing with cedar, berry, vanilla and chocolate. Full-bodied, adding a long, rich fruit aftertaste. Built for aging in a modern style. — 1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2005.

Magnum. Impressive fruit impression initially, but the finish of this particular magnum was a bit dead. (JR)

The 1989 Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a vintage that I have not encountered for many years. Provenance probably plays a part, and this magnum was stored on release by François Mitjavile’s UK agent. It has a deep hue with little aging on the rim and thick tears in the glass. The bouquet is broody at first, then bursts open with dark cherry, raspberry, morels and crushed stone, offering more blue fruit as it gradually responds to aeration. The structured, concentrated palate conveys a sense of beguiling symmetry. It is beautifully balanced with layers of black fruit infused with black truffle and hints of white pepper, and its satin texture belies the backbone on the finish that will ensure that well-stored bottles like this will give another 20 years of drinking pleasure. Superb. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London.

Fully mature; if you have a bottle, you should consider popping the cork to get the most from its profile of fresh, ripe black raspberries, flowers, earth, licorice, and liqueur. Silky, soft, and smooth, this is at—or slightly past—its apogee.

90: barrel sample (17/20): full, deep color. Amarena cherry aromas with a currant-like nose and dried prunes. On the palate, extremely full-bodied; brown rum and coffee. The acidity marries elegantly with the tannins. The wine needed over four months to ferment, as the potential alcohol was close to 15% ABV. A bomb! In 1998, I tasted a magnum that unfortunately smelled corked. 92: Port-like nose; dried figs, fully open. On the palate, very little acidity, the tannins don’t currently bind well with the fat. 17/20 1994 – 2000

Dark red color. Good intensity. Black highlights. Evolved. Type 89. The nose is not clean! Oxidized. Apple. With swirling, spicier. Port. Round and rich on the attack, the palate develops powerfully with flavor mid-palate, but also a rustic tannic structure that dries the mouth, leaving a taste of licorice and chewed apple. Total lack of class. Rustic wine.