Château Cos d'Estournel 1998

Bottled in April, 2000, this elegant, stylish, graceful wine is an attractive, dark ruby/purple-colored effort with subtle notes of sweet oak, licorice, herbs, and black fruits. While not massive, it is medium-bodied and ripe, with sweet tannin. Forty-eight percent of the production was utilized in this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018.

Slightly herbal, with dried rosemary and mint beneath the blackberry character on the nose. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a light finish. A little diluted. Not a great Cos. -- '88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 20,830 cases made.

The 1998 vintage was not an outstanding one for most Cabernet-based reds from Bordeaux, particularly from the Medoc. It rained in late September and affected the quality of the grapes. That said, most of the Right Bank, such as Pomerol and St. Emilion, made superlative wines since they harvest before the rains. In any case, the 1998 Cos was a delicious bottle, showing a spicy and slightly herbal character on both the nose and palate with hints of currants and dried fruits. It was full and soft with velvety tannins. It definitely needs drinking. It suggests to me that a lot of 1998 Left Bank wines need drinking.

Fully developed, medium-bodied, bright and fresh, with a spicy nuance and a herbaceous streak that runs through the palate and nose of this crisp, slightly reticent red berry-filled wine.

Medium garnet, still with purple highlights. Lactic bouquet, a touch of mocha, casein, ripe plums, expansive and fairly full-bodied, underpinned by an appropriate sweet toasty note. On the palate, rounded and creamy, showing black peppercorn and spice in the extract, with a finish that is almost a bit too sweet. An erotic wine, but not particularly Bordeaux-typical in taste.

The wine was offered on the market at “25% cheaper.” A new dawn thanks to the new owners? Or perhaps the realization that Bordeaux lovers around the world eventually judge a wine’s value by its quality? If so, they should have halved the price! 99: Deep purple with ruby and violet highlights. Intense bouquet of fine oak and blackberries, smoky cassis note, lovely, complex sweetness mingled with spicy terroir aromas. On the palate, very delicate structure, regal balance, again plenty of fine oak balancing fruit and astringency; a hint of dried fruit on the finish, gently dry tannins, which currently cost it one point. Nose better than palate (17/20). Blind tasting in spring 2006 in the tasting room. It was so disappointing that even the 1997 was considered better at the time than this rather modest Cos 1998. It came across as lean, skinny and wiry, and even ended with an unnecessary bitterness on the finish. (16/20). 06: Medium garnet with still some purple tints. Lactic bouquet, mocha touch, casein, ripe plums, expansive and quite full, underpinned by a fitting sweet toasty note. On the palate round, creamy, showing black peppercorns and spice in the extract; not particularly Bordeaux-typical in flavor, the finish almost a touch too sweet. A sensual wine that may still be searching for its typicity. (17/20). 07: Earthy bouquet, humus notes, dried plums, freshly tanned leather, Ricola, cocoa, fig tones, clear Cabernet Franc spice reminiscent of Irish moss lozenges. Meaty, velvety palate, medium body, carrying great spice, good reserves, superb length. Easily around 18/20 and could reach that in three years. 08: Matte, maturing purple, lightening ruby and brick rim. Red cherries on the nose, subtly lactic with a certain yogurt touch, then classic Bordeaux aromatics, walnut shells, intoxicating through its intense roasted notes. On the palate, a terroir-typical capsule note; the tannins thus feel (still?) a bit metallic. There are reserves here, but the wine needs to develop in the right direction, otherwise it may dry out a little. (18/20). Drunk in the Wachau at F.X. Pichler. Spicy, tobacco-like, elegant and very digestible. Developing very positively. A totally underrated Cos that can still be found at a fair price. Buy! (18/20). 12: Lightening, maturing garnet. Open sweet-plummy bouquet, cedar, black pepper, fresh stag leather. On the palate fairly soft with a certain Cabernet strictness and a fine bitterness in the extract. So for now the nose is slightly better than the palate. This slight bitterness can still be absorbed with further bottle age and then it will gain another point. I’m already giving it that extra point. (18/20). 16: Delicately spicy, showing a noble bitterness on the tongue. It is not as toasty as other Cos from that time, so one could indeed call it classic.

Logo on the cork: FP Dark color, medium intensity and evolved. Moderately aromatic nose, fruity and smoky. Soft, pleasant, perfumed palate with medium body and length.