Château de Fonbel 2020

Fully 70% of the Vauthier family's 2020 Fonbel was aged in tank, and that no doubt helps to explain its appealing purity of fruit. Bursting with notes of cherries, berries, petals and anise, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and charming.

This is a little tight on the opening, bright fruit running underneath but clear austerity to the tannins, with touches of tobacco leaf and redcurrant that feel a little strained. Enjoyable coffee smoke as it opens, and there is delicacy. First year of conversion to organic farming. Harvest from September 14 to October 1.

A juicy and fruity red with plums, ripe cherries and ash. Medium body. Delicious fruit and a soft and fruity finish. Drink now or hold.

65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Carmenère. 26 hl/ha (half the normal production). Cask sample. Juicy and fruit-driven with considerable freshness. Red- and dark-fruit notes. A touch more concentration due to yield. Light but finely etched tannins. Simple but pleasing. (JL)

The 2020 De Fonbel is bright, punchy and bursting with fruit. Sweet floral accents lift a core of red berry fruit in a soft, caressing Saint-Émilion that will drink well pretty much right out of the gate. The 2020 is an absolute delight. I imagine this charming, mid-weight Saint-Émilion will drink well for another 10-15 years. Today, it is absolutely delicious. I especially like the energy here.

Soft, supple-textured and refined, the wine is floral in nature before moving to its core of sweet, ripe, soft and spicy, fresh cherries, kirsch and earthy, bright red plums. Drink this on the young side. Drink from 2023-2034.

The 2020 Château De Fonbel is based on 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Carmenère, coming from more sandy, gravelly soils. This deep ruby-hued effort offers a terrific bouquet of red and black currants, leafy tobacco, sandalwood, and graphite, and it's medium to full-bodied, has a supple, elegant mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and outstanding length. It's surprisingly accessible yet is going to have 15 years of prime drinking, possibly more.

A blend of 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Carmenere, the 2020 de Fonbel is deep garnet-purple in color. It comes bounding out with notions of boysenberries, stewed plums, and fresh blueberries, plus suggestions of pencil shavings, lavender, and tilled soil. The medium-bodied palate is vibrant and expressive, with very soft tannins and a lively backbone, finishing with lots of energy.

An intense, rich nose of red fruits, sweet spices and peonies. The palate is perfectly ripe, juicy and generous, with black-fruit aromas and a delightful vanilla lift on the finish.

Covering 16ha, the vines are planted on clay-sandy, gravelly and sandy soils. Planting density ranges from 5,500 to 12,600 vines per hectare. The wine stands out for its fruit and freshness, which it shows consistently from the nose through to the finish. Fonbel has energy, pep, and also a gourmand touch, making it all the more inviting. A pleasure wine to enjoy from a young age.

Clay-sand soils with areas of gravel, more of a challenge than Ausone and La Clotte in the conditions of 2020, but this is extremely well handled, with sweet red cherry, redcurrant and raspberry fruit, ripe with a touch of smoked oak (although no new oak used) and coffee beans. In conversion for organic certification since this 2020 vintage, this shows a little less density than the other Vauthier wines in the range, but it is unpretentious and well made, easy to recommend.

89-90

Some powerful tannins along with black fruits. It is a juicy wine, ripe with black-currant flavors and a light structure. Drink the wine from 2026.