Château Durfort-Vivens 2010

Durfort is not a wine for superficial enjoyment. When young, it shows a modest, classical austerity that borders on self-censorship. It needs at least ten years of cellaring, as 1999 or 2000 illustrate, and only then does it develop its distinctive, restrained, and mastered elegance and nobility. If we rate it half a point lower than en primeur, it is solely to illustrate this character trait. Because for less than 40 euros, you get a bottle that, once it reaches its drinking maturity, promises pleasure for twenty to thirty years!

A perplexing estate, there has been some back-pedaling in quality, given the very cedary, herbaceous nose, including some notes of leafy vegetables. The wine is a medium-bodied blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. The alcohol level is 13.9%, slightly lower than many of the better wines in this vintage, given the ripeness and high alcohols 2010 produced. A rather safely made, correct, but uninspiring effort, this medium-bodied Margaux should drink nicely for 10-15+ years.

Rather briary, with an energetic feel to the crushed blackberry, loganberry and mulberry fruit, laced with bay leaf and iron, and backed by a long, perfumy finish that offers good latent grip. Best from 2014 through 2027.

Wildly perfumed with lifted sweet and cool dark fruits. Juicy and alive. Quite a direct approach, but with some salty, crushed stone tannins giving weight. Classic and calm, but the fruit feels clean: mouthwatering and energetic. Finish has a metallic minerality, with pencil shavings and liquorice coming through. Fresh and easy drinking.

Aromatic, with the sweetness of dark fruit but also that fresh pencil-lead delicacy. Chewy and moreish. Not as fresh on the finish as many in this vintage. (JH)

The 2010 Durfort-Vivens has impressive intensity on the nose with scents of blackberry, cedar, allspice and graphite, developing an almost Pauillac-like personality with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation and acidity. This completely shades preceding vintages of the decade; not a powerful Margaux, yet very well balanced with admirable purity on the finish. This is drinking supremely well at the moment but should give another 15–20 years of pleasure. Tasted at the Durfort-Vivens dinner at Portland restaurant.

From an assemblage of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc (which is almost identical to the blend in 2009), this medium-bodied, soft, cassis and red plum wine is elegantly styled and should drink well within a few years of release. 89-91 pts

Extremely dark purple. Powerful bouquet with peppery spice notes, black noble woods, coffee, a slight stemmy Cabernet character, subtly dry on the attack. Meaty palate with massive astringency, dense extract. Currently seems (still?) quite firm, which is typical not only of Durfort but also of the vintage.

Extremely dark purple with lilac and violet highlights. Powerful bouquet with peppery spice notes, black fine woods, coffee, a slight stemmy Cabernet spice, discreetly dry on the attack. Meaty palate with massive astringency, dense extract. The components of high acidity and firm tannin still need to be digested. At the moment it seems (still?) quite hard, which is on the one hand typical of Durfort and this year also typical of the vintage. (17/20). 12: Very dark wine-red with a lilac sheen. Idiosyncratic bouquet starting with fine herbal notes, blackberry canes, smoke, earthy-iron tone; opens up with air, yet constantly recalls in parts the artisanal era. On the palate convincing; it does show slightly dry tannins, but the astringency fits. It will need a lot of time and will also tend not to be a crowd-pleasing wine. Still, I believe it will be much better than many tasters think. I’m taking the first step and hope it will meet my expectations in 10 years at its first maturity.

Velvety, fruity, sweet, cool bouquet, blue berries, cedar, mocha. Classic, firm palate with good fruit, lots of tannin, slightly angular structure, long, dry finish. 17/20 2017 - 2030

Beautiful color intensity, a powerful nose, almost roasted, layered with notes of rose and peony that are distinctly Margaux-like, long, majestic, worth waiting for.

The attack is supple, with charm, but the tannins stand guard and the finish is fresh and dry, while well-coated. Good volume, but the ripeness is just right. Supple and elegant, medium-bodied, with lovely fruit.

Deep, dark, vibrant purple-red color. Fruity, fresh, discreet nose with the usual touch of liveliness. Lovely attack on the palate, with immediately refined texture. The wine opens aromatically but lacks density mid-palate. It tightens slightly on the finish with a brighter note and ends with a normal length.

An ugly duckling at en primeur time, this has since blossomed into a wine that is structured, tending toward severity. Yet it also has richness in the form of layered black fruit, with smooth wood influence and tight acidity on the finish. It's a wine for long-term aging.