Château Margaux 2007

From the very first aromatic impression, it quite literally knocks you off your feet. Incredibly delicate notes of lilac, raspberry, musk, and sour cherry wave in; you rub your nose and think it’s a mirage—surely there must be a Clos du Tart or something similar in the glass—but no, it’s a Margaux, assures Paul Pontallier, himself surprised and captivated by the charm of his offspring, which on the palate is also exceedingly delicate, elegant, and finely structured, full of grace, yet dense, very long, and complete; rarely so balanced at this stage, and built to last. Enjoy either very young (11/12) or after six years of ageing. (16/20)

The elegant 2007 Chateau Margaux’s purity, depth of fruit, and overall equilibrium are impressive. A dark ruby/purple color is accompanied by notes of spring flowers, black currants, and blackberries, a soft, lush, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and delicacy allied to impressive depth, texture, and length. Already drinkable, it should continue to offer exceptional pleasure for 15 or more years.

All of the Left Bank firsts are tasting excellent, but Margaux stands out for the tightness and clarity of its sweet cherry and cassis fruit expression, the menthol grip on the finish, and the perfume that runs through the palate. This is a vintage that could almost be ready to drink with a good carafing, but the layers of graphite and the finesse to the tannins suggest it could also go longer. A great example of the subtle crafting possible in 2007.

Bright, dark red. Knockout nose combines redcurrant, blackberry, spices, flowers, tobacco and seductive sweet oak tones; complex and aristocratic. Then sweet, suave and seamless, with lovely inner-mouth perfume and noteworthy finesse to the flavors of blackberry, cherry and flowers. Finishes long and sweet, with noble tannins for the year. Not a big wine but one of the classiest examples of the vintage.

Ruby in color, the wine offers truffle, cigar box and red fruits. This is all about the secondary nuances and the soft, silky, elegant textures. Medium bodied, but with charming, red fruit characteristics, this is at full maturity. This is not a Margaux to make old bones, but in a blind tasting, no one is going to think this is from 2007. It's surprisingly much better than anticipated.

Medium-dark ruby-purple. Delicately scented bouquet: raspberries, red cherries, sour cherries, violets, further floral, fragrant notes; layered yet somehow discreet at the barrel tasting. Long, fine palate: despite a relatively light-looking body, it shows terrific aromatics; chewy tannins, medium-fine yet quite concentrated, as reflected in the persistent astringency and the red-berry but intense finish. Power and finesse combined. Thanks to an exceptionally strict selection, Margaux has produced a relatively great wine despite the well-known vintage conditions. In its first phase of maturity around 2018, it can be compared with the 1985! Paul Pontallier: «Petit Verdot really always belongs in Margaux. But this year, in the fine assemblage, it brought components that were too rough and would have affected the wine negatively even at one or two percent, so with heavy hearts we decided to leave it out!»

08: 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 32% of the harvest went into the Grand Vin. Never before has so much been declassified at Château Margaux. Besides Pavillon Rouge, which was selected from 48% of the production, an additional 20% of the total volume was separated as a simple appellation wine. Medium-deep ruby-purple. Delicate bouquet—raspberries, red cherries, morello cherries, violets and other floral, perfumed notes—multi-layered yet somehow discreet during the barrel tasting. Long, fine palate; despite a relatively light-feeling body, the wine shows great aromatics. The tannins are textured, medium-fine yet quite concentrated, reflected in the lasting astringency and the red-berry but intense aftertaste. Power and finesse come together here. A big difference emerges between the second wine Pavillon and the Grand Vin, and only because a Premier Cru can (or for competitive reasons must) afford to document such a strict selection has a relatively great wine been produced here—despite the well-known vintage conditions. At its first maturity around 2018, this can be compared with the 1985! Paul Pontallier: “In fact, Petit Verdot always belongs in Château Margaux. But this year, in the delicate blend, it showed too rough a component and would have negatively influenced the wine even at one or two percent, so we reluctantly did without it!” 08: Tasted again in May: inky and red-berried, already showing an initial, soft barrique sheen on the outside. (18/20). 09: About three months before bottling, as a barrel sample. Brightening purple-ruby, showing quite a broad rim. Sweet bouquet, Parisette bread crust, pleasantly sweet, red cherry jelly, a touch of grenadine and a hint of vanilla. Fine, very elegant palate, dancing; the tannins are well distributed yet remain regally in the background, floury astringency. Will become fine and feminine, like the 1993, and reassuring between the rather masculine vintages ’08 and ’06—except for its price. (18/20). 17: It was wedged into a Palmer series (1998, 1999 and 2009). And it was completely different. Lactic, with caramel and toasty oak notes, somehow very communicative. On the palate, juicy, long, though rather medium-weight. If it weren’t for the price, for this challenging vintage, much would be just right.

Great finesse, remarkable floral and spicy aromas, a slightly tight texture due to the recent bottling, less volume on the palate and creaminess than the great Pauillacs, but a guaranteed future.

An open and highly complex nose. A refined wine with generous fruit and lovely intensity for the vintage. Château Margaux has a fine length, though it does not show the depth of the 2008. Very silky and balanced.

Logo on the capsule: inverted T (Trescases) Medium-intensity color, evolved, but as often this rim is narrower than in Sassicaia. Moderately intense nose with ripe fruit. From the attack, the wine shows density, but it doesn’t expand in the mid-palate. Tasty, fruity, it lingers with slightly rough-grained tannins that lack a bit of finesse for the cru. Unless it’s the bottle. Normal length.

Silky wine, fresh and light, balanced with high acidity cutting through black berry fruits. The structure has some substance, but this is a light, aromatic wine, developing fast, already delicious, and only for medium-term aging.