René Gabriel
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot. 37 hl/ha. Dark garnet-purple, ruby rim. Discreet, very fine bouquet, still restrained, showing lovely depth, black berries, licorice, tar nuances. Firm, fleshy palate, showing plenty of meat in the delicately sweet extract, tightly knit tannins and acidity, broad in scope, a reassuring, non-speculative Palmer with great class and equally patient potential. (18/20). 18: Very dark purple with a final lilac sheen, dense core. The bouquet is closed yet still conveys an incredible array of facets: floral touch, elderberry, licorice and even fine truffle notes rising from underneath. The palate is concentrated, rich in substance, with infinitely many new aromas hidden in the extract; it goes deep and shows potential for at least 40 years. A classic of the newer, more modern Palmer era. Almost monumental. The Petit Verdot was declassified. So the blend is: 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot. It has gained since the first impressions. (19/20). 19: Deep purple, ruby glimmer. Somehow you get the feeling you’re seeing the first contours of color evolution. The nose also signals this “evolution hypothesis.” The fruit is fading and is replaced by terroir nuances. Cedar, light leather, chanterelles, Bakelite, and traces of currants and slightly dried plums. Although one could speak of an initial maturity on the nose, the bouquet still feels somewhat reserved, which is typical of the vintage. On the palate, fleshy; the flow is still a bit roughened and fitted with crumbly tannins. In the finish there is more fruit than on the nose, and the seemingly sweet finish shows aromas of black-currant pastilles and sandalwood. The overall constellation of this promising wine suggests that, for the moment, it simply isn’t in the mood. So hide the corkscrew from this wine. In full maturity it will rather turn into a Médoc classic. This assumption fits a blend which, at 56%, is very Cabernet-heavy for a Palmer. First uncork from 2025 and then decant for three hours. (19/20). 21: Curiously, it was slightly lighter than Alter Ego in the glass next to it. Deep garnet. The bouquet shows a lovely sweetness reminiscent of sandalwood and caramel, and you can also sense dark berries. But it’s not really communicating yet. On the palate, ample, dense, concentrated, demanding. Here too, the fruit aromas head toward cassis and blackberry, with a persistent finish. A mysterious Palmer with great aging potential. Can you force an early drinking window by decanting? I wouldn’t really try. But buying it wouldn’t be a bad idea. (19/20).