Paul Jaboulet-Aîné : Domaine de la Croix des Vignes 2013

Another outstanding wine from this estate that shines for its purity and elegance is the 2013 St Joseph Domaine de Croix de Vignes, which comes from 1.5-hectare of vines located just outside Tournon and Mauves. Aged in 20% new French oak, it has classic notes of dark fruits, olive, licorice, smoked earth and distinct minerality. Medium-bodied, elegant and seamless with fine tannin, it's already approachable in a youthful sort of way, but will evolve nicely for 10-12 years.

A plush, frankly toasted style, with a core of dark plum and cassis fruit notes well-coated with ganache and roasted vanilla. Will have some fans for the sense of depth, but this is a bit overly reliant on toast, ending with a slightly firm edge. Drink now through 2018. 25 cases imported.

Bright violet. Vibrant, mineral-laced aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, Indian spices and olive, along with a hint of licorice. Palate-staining, concentrated blackberry and cherry preserve, candied violet and peppery spice flavors show excellent clarity, lift and power. The floral quality drives the finish, which hangs on with excellent tenacity and just a hint of fine-grained tannins.

It opens on a sound structure, with a tight juice, fairly dense but disjointed on the palate, coming across as angular and lacking charm.