Penfolds : Saint Henri Shiraz 2021

I recently tasted a vertical of St Henri from 1958 through to this 2021, and just behind 1962 and 2010, the 2021 was among the top five best St Henri’s ever made. The 2021 St Henri Shiraz has succulence and balance, and it is fresh and unencumbered by heavy oak characters thanks to the use of large-format, seasoned oak and the blessing of the season. The tannic density and weight of the wine come from the fruit rather than the vessel, and this will stand it in great stead over the decades to come. This was sourced from Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. 2021 was a lovely season in South Australia; the lead-in was wet from August onward, replenishing the arid ground from the past three vintages of drought. The season was long and warm but rarely, if ever, hot, with well-timed rain events that allowed producers, for the most part, to avoid viticultural pressure. Having explained this, I have found many of the reds from 2021 to be really quite ripe—it seems to me that many people had the opportunity to leave fruit on the vine, and many did. This seems to buck that trend. Excellent. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Coined as Penfolds’ 'counterpoint to Grange’, St Henri has a more reined-in character but still carries all the density and richness you expect from this benchmark Australian Shiraz producer. It is opulent and luxurious in style, with warming notes of kirsch, cola and sweet spices, underpinned by a savoury smoked-meat character and a long-lasting finish.

Blackberries and dark chocolate with some toasted nuts, oak and graphite give this very enticing aromas that follow through to a medium body with a solid core of fruit and fine tannins that spread across the palate. Extremely well crafted overall and easy to drink young. Drink or hold.

The 2021 St. Henri Shiraz comes from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs plenty of swirling to awaken notes of star anise, tilled earth, charcoal, and mossy tree bark, leading to a core of plum preserves and black cherry compote with a waft of mint tea. The full-bodied palate is packed with expressive black fruits and savory nuances, supported by very firm yet approachable tannins and a lively line, finishing long and opulent. Forget about it in the cellar for 5 years and then watch it transform into a legendary St. Henri! It was aged for 12 months in large, seasoned oak vats. According to chief winemaker Peter Gago, 2021 and 2022 in South Australia were as good as it gets for grape-growing. 2022 was relatively cool—cooler than 2021. There were no temperature peaks above 35 degrees Celsius in 2022.