Château Durfort-Vivens 2023

An aroma to dive into, to dream with—I want to forget time for a moment; dark fruit, peppery spice, clear cassis, cherry, floral notes; on the palate, an unparalleled bundle of fruit, compact, powerful, yet feather-light, full of energy and drive, wild and yet calm, tannins carved from stone, great harmony, very long finish. Excellent.

Deep dark nose, vibrant and rich, gorgeous floral scents with dark chocolate, plum, black cherry and blackcurrant. Good vibrancy and energy to this. A little sharp at first, then settles and straightens. Tannins are well worked, nothing harsh or austere, just bright and in the high-acidity style. I like this a lot, it has finesse and elegance, gorgeous texture to the tannins, fine but ripe, giving a soft chew. Excellent movement and overall charm. Lots to like here and I just love the vibrancy, the sense of weight, precision and purity. Great stuff. 15% press wine.

Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Fresh cassis, ripe blackberry, a hint of black cherry, delicate orange zest. Complex, powerful, full-bodied, fresh structure, fine tannins, delicate sweetness on the finish, firm and persistent, overall fresh and promising.

Wonderfully fragrant aromatics that climb through the palate; this has the juice and power that 2023 does so well in the right hands, majoring on squid ink and cassis, with clear expansion through the palate, liquorice, sage, saffron, pomegranate, orange zest and a saline scrape. Harvest September 11 to October 4, 35 hl/ha yield, pH 3.66, 66% new oak, 33% amphoras for ageing. Right up there with the best of Margaux.

Score: 94–96. Sensual, luminous aromas of blackcurrant, deep and rich, mingle on the nose with chocolate ganache, all highlighted by an intriguing note of cardamom. Pure and fluid, it unfolds across the palate, enveloping the mouth in a gradual burst of black fruits, structured by powerful brushed-velvet tannins.

95-97. Barrel Sample. Ripe tannins contrast with the intense acidity and succulence of this wine. It is a firm wine, solid and concentrated. The potential, with the structure and acidity, is considerable. Organic and biodynamic.