Château Laville Haut-Brion 2006

VINUM 6/2007 - In great Sémillon years, Laville-Haut-Brion, today renamed La Mission-Haut-Brion Blanc, is quite simply one of the greatest white wines in the world. This is especially true for the 2006 and 2007 pair, even though both wines are almost undrinkable at the moment and should by no means be opened—particularly given their extreme rarity and high price. Great Laville needs to age at least ten to fifteen years, preferably twenty—unlike the white Haut-Brion, which is enjoyable after six to eight years.

Very lemony, with hints of vanilla and cream on the nose. Reminds me of a baby grand cru Burgundy. Full-bodied, showing lots of coconut and toasty oak character, with lemon curd on the finish. A bit ponderous and thick now, but flavorful and structured. Powerful and layered. Best after 2011. 500 cases made.

The color shows development, yet the wine is still young and fresh. The wine is rich in extract, the fruit is ripe, and the notes of crushed rock, pomelo, and lemon peel, with just a touch of honeysuckle, really linger.

Fresh, dense, with plenty of citrus and white peach notes.

86% Sémillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc. Rich, dense bouquet, fine Williams pear and a hint of refreshing Granny Smith, clear and direct. On the palate, very fine, delicate, creamy, with a lot of straightforward aromatics. Due to the selection, a very difficult vintage, as faulty grapes had to be sorted out by laborious handwork. Jean-Philippe Délmas speaks of a “Sauternes harvest” in terms of effort. A mineral, fresh wine with great potential. (18/20). 13: Bright, medium yellow. The bouquet seems reserved, mineral notes, remnants of white peach, concentrated, fresh chamomile. On the palate, creamy, concentrated, brilliant aromatics, honeyed notes, hardly distinguishable from a great Burgundy (Puligny type). Still, you get the feeling the wine is currently closed. Even after half an hour, not much was happening. So, decant for a long time. Yes indeed – sometimes you should decant white wine too! (18/20). 15: Relatively pale yellow, transparent. The bouquet seems a bit milky. On the second nose, linden blossom, verbena. On the palate, elegant, finely integrated acidity, beautiful balance, showing gentle bitterness on the finish that gives it character. The two white Haut-Brion’s seemed almost a bit boring compared with this finely edgy Laville. That was the last Laville. From the 2007 vintage onward, the same wine was called La Mission blanc. Just like in the old days.

Pale yellow color. Fruity, suave nose. A soft palate with a delicate touch, slightly honeyed in flavor, melting and with good length.

93—95 Barrel sample. A beautiful wine, full of white fruits, citric character and concentrated structured fruit. Great green fruits give a freshness to the wine, which is fleshed out with spice from the wood.