Château Rauzan-Gassies 2023

Attractive cassis fruit, herbal-spicy notes; slim palate, somewhat austere tannins, drying and astringent on the finish.

While I like the appealing blackberry and cassis aromas echoed into the attack on the palate, which exhibits some crushed herb and more fruit, the tannins quickly reveal themselves as raw and drying, lacking the charm—subtle or overt—that one would expect especially from a Margaux. Tasted twice with one sample better than the other, but both with drying and somewhat astringent tannins on the finish. This wine has underlying power, but there is a large question mark as to whether the barrel ageing will improve the wine.

90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Cask sample. Dark-fruit aroma and flavour with plenty of tannic punch. A touch robust for Margaux. Structured and solid but could do with a little more finesse. (JL)

Freshness, flowers, ripe fruits, soft tannins, and a relaxed approach work well here. The wine is medium-bodied, with vibrancy in the fruits, and lift in the currant, chocolate, espresso, and licorice-filled finish. Drink from 2028-2043. 91-93 pts.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening on the rim. Dark-berry fruit with tobacco undertones, fresh cherries, orange zest, subtle wood spice. Juicy, complex, a hint of dried fruit, round tannins, a nutty touch on the finish, already approachable.

Ruby red in colour, this is a delicious Rauzan Gassies, with finely boned tannins, clove and black pepper spice, raspberry fruits, olive pit, sage, plenty of graphite and slate, and a juicy approachability. 60% new oak for ageing, great stuff from the Quié family.

Score: 92–94. A rather delightful nose opening with delicate, moreish notes of black cherry, blackcurrant, and crushed raspberry. Like Proust’s madeleine, it takes you back to childhood: a summer’s day when aromas of dry undergrowth, Mediterranean flowers, and warm tar mingle in your nostrils, creating a very elegant bouquet. At the heart of this wine lies a well-concentrated core of ripe fruit, generous yet controlled, with a persistent hint of tar and delightfully firm tannins.

The 2023 Rauzan Gassies has a light, more tertiary nose that unequivocally misses the brightness and energy of its peers. It's not bad by any means, but there is no bandwidth, little personality. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, rather dry with a muddled finish, with the oak not in sync with the fruit.