Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups : Clos du Hochet 2022

Deeply concentrated and beguiling, with quince, baked apple, ginger and fleur de sel notes all sharing the stage equally. Pie crust accents add to the richness, while a savory blast of acidity cuts through for a snappy, succulent finish that stretches way out. Pretty stunning. Drink now through 2030. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.

The 2022 Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Hochet hails from a vineyard with a very shallow clay-flint topsoil over chalk that tends to lose the sun early. The resulting wine is lithe in style with a firm citrus line. However, it has mid-palate weight and concentration that counters that linearity. Talc, white flowers, pastry and citrus flavors combine on the long, athletic finish.