Crystalline rocks, clay marl. One of the few 2018s in this line-up. A warm sheltered site at 300–350 m. Smells gloriously rich and open, with an impression of spicy depths. Ripe and spicy pears, and lovely oily mineral quality. On the palate, full, rich and with a cedar-like freshness, an impression of spontaneous fermentation in its herbal flavour. Power and sour-freshness on the finish. Complex and likely to become more so. The empty glass even has a suggestion of caramel – though the wine is bone dry. (JH)
