The intensely golden-yellow colored 2019 Ried Käferberg 1ÖTW Kamptal Grüner Veltliner opens very intense and upfront on the nose yet without being overly fruity or at least primary fruity. However, this is a very specific, nowadays rather unusual style with rich and ripe, possibly botrytized fruit that is deep, intense, tangy and robust rather than refined on the yeasty nose or, in the best sense, rural, also due to some phenolic notes. The palate is full-bodied, rich, intense and creamy rather than crystalline in the first moment. However, this intense and powerful wine reveals fine crystalline and salty acidity along with seriously firm tannins that make this 2019 Käferberg an excellent choice for intensely spiced dishes. The wine remains robust and grippy on the finish, where it still reveals intensity, tension and structure. Surely not everybody's darling, especially not in context with other, more polished Kamptal Veltliners, but combined with the right dish this could be a perfect match not least due to its power and extracted phenolics. The wine was aged in large oak vats and bottled with 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in January 2022.
92
/100
Wine Spectator
Bruce Sanderson
The lush, round feel of this white is initially cut by vivid acidity, framing flavors of peach, citrus, savory herbs and celery root. Balanced, ending with spicy, savory, peppery elements. Drink now through 2024. 400 cases made, 10 cases imported.
90
/100
James Suckling
Butterscotch is not my favorite gruner veltliner aroma and this wine has a stack of it in the nose. Much better on the palate with impressive structure and well-judged tannins that support the medium-full body nicely. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
