Borgogno : Cannubi Riserva 2019

From the legendary Cannubi cru, this is one of three single-vineyard Borgogno wines being released solely through négociants on the Place. A fragrant, spiced and savoury nose offering so much aromatic complexity in terms of espresso, sandalwood, violets and chocolate. LIvely and bright but wow what a wine, this has a wall of tannins that hit you square on - massy, fleshy and ripe but so well controlled and with a softly chalky texture so that they're not too overwhelming or drying on the palate. Rich, full and wide, but finessed with delicacy in terms of fruit purity. Balanced and harmonious, so easy to like this. Strawberries, red cherries and juicy plums with some bitter orange accents. Yum. Just 3,000 bottles being released from the estate bought in 2008 by Andrea Farinetti and the Farinetti family, who are also behind the Eataly empire.

A great moment to begin drinking this, brings you into the heart of mature Barolo, infused with tobacco, liquorice, smoked earth, mandarin, redcurrant, fragrant dried spices, cumin and incense. Simone Borsari winemaker, Andrea Farinetti owner of this 1.3ha Cannubi vineyard, natural years, Slovenian oak casks for ageing.

In the bottle with the red wax capsule, the Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno 2019 Barolo Riserva Cannubi shows a hint of tertiary definition with faded fruit, autumnal leaf and black tea. The wine is finely knit in terms of mouthfeel, and you get a slightly textured effect with granular tannins. Fruit is selected from one part, the Vigna Battista, of the three parcels farmed in Cannubi, with southern exposures on sand, silt and clay. That limestone sand is what adds the special finesse to Cannubi fruit, typically, although climate change has complicated things. This is a 3,100-bottle release.