Casanova di Neri : Tenuta Nuova 2017

Tenuta Nuova hails from Casanova di Neri’s Le Cetine vineyard in Montalcino’s south. With a full southern exposure from east to west, it is a sun-soaked, Mediterranean expression of Brunello. The 2017 takes a bit of coaxing at first but then cherry bark, cinnamon, liquorice root and gardenia arise from the glass. Upfront, gritty tannins dissolve slowly into a fine dusty powder, revealing supple, round black currants. Citrusy acidity keeps this lively while dark chocolate and mint notes linger.

Full-bodied, with muscular tannins supporting a ripe and transparent core of dark cherry, plum and blueberry fruit. Balanced and well done for the vintage. Chewy. Drinkable now but better in a couple of years.

Mid ruby. Cherry-liqueur nose with oatmeal hints and with plenty of depth. Sweet cherry fruit held together by bitter-sweet, grainy tannins. Monolithic fruit right now, which needs time to unfurl. (WS)

Rich, bright garnet red. Intense nose with notes of pomegranate, beetroot, then lots of plum and dark cherry. Hearty and gripping on the palate, dark berry fruit, then it opens up with plenty of dense tannins, with a firm drive on the finish.

This is one of my all-time favorite Brunellos, and although personal tastes are fluid and may change from time to time, there is something timeless and solid about this wine. It’s like a touchstone. The Casanova di Neri 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is graced with a similar interlude of elegant rose or crushed flower that we saw in the annata wine. It appears more prominently here, and with more shape and focused intensity. Make no mistake, Giacomo Neri builds wines for pleasure and sensual impact, and this wine (helped by a hot growing season and 15% alcohol) ticks all those boxes. But it also shows floral elegance and sour cherry freshness that defies our expectations of the vintage.