Charles Heidsieck : Blanc des Millénaires 2007

Cyril Brun considers the 2007 vintage more interesting for Chardonnay than 2008, and Charles Heidsieck's 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires is certainly a compelling wine. Unwinding in the glass with scents of crisp stone fruits, honeycomb, buttered pastry, yellow apples, pear and freshly baked bread, it's full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a concentrated core of fruit and a chiseled, racy profile. Combining generosity and tension, it's a terrific new release.

Sleek and linear, with racy acidity defining the up-front impact on the palate, but then the plushly creamy texture deftly delivers woven aromas and flavors of apricot and ripe white raspberry, pickled ginger, white blossoms and salted Marcona almond, allowing them to expand through to the mineral-laced finish. Disgorged 2021. Drink now through 2030. 259 cases imported.

The house of Charles Heidsieck has patiently built an imperious reputation for its toasty, fine non-vintages over the past 20 years. Trade up to Blanc des Millénaires (‘of the millennia’, rather than ‘the millionaires’) for a blend of Chardonnay from top Côte des Blancs villages Cramant, Avize, Oger, Le Mesnil sur Oger and Vertus, aged on lees for 13 years. On this showing it stakes a claim as one of the top wines of the vintage. Tom Hewson: Ground almond and lemon peel notes with peach blossom and floral honey. Broad, mature citrus oil palate. Alan Bednarski: Well developed, with good balance and a zesty finish. Nut and mushroom undertones mixed with a hint of truffle, soya sauce and sawdust. Shane Jones: Dosage and acidity all in balance. Just enough flavour concentration for interest. Medium finish. Hard to see how this can get better in the future.

A pure, refreshing nose with lightly vanilla-tinged pear aromas. On the palate, a simple, streamlined style. A fresh, approachable Champagne that’s a pleasure to drink.