Charles Heidsieck : Vintage Rosé 2008

A rich Champagne, with a chiseled frame of acidity meeting fine, lacy texture to produce a harmonious effect on the palate. Shows a lovely range of roasted almond, dried cherry and raspberry, mandarin orange peel, and accents of verbena, fleur de sel, brioche and espresso that play on the racy finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged 2020. Drink now through 2038. 59 cases imported.

An amazing 2008 rosé Champagne that has all the structure and aromatic complexity — sushi ginger, oolong tea and caramelized mandarin orange — we associate with this vintage, but also has more charm than most. On the palate, this has stunning concentration, yet is diamond bright. The interplay of creaminess, fine tannins and mineral acidity builds and builds at the breathtaking finish. The color comes from about 7% pinot noir red wine, partly from the little-known Les Riceys in the far south of Champagne. Drink now or hold.

A lovely, subtle nose with beautiful finesse of style. Complexity comes from notes of candied orange and kumquat. Bigarade. This is a lovely rosé for contemplation, a serious wine.

The red wine almost seems to tame this 2008 a little, adding warmth and roundness to an alluring, complex rosé that takes in savoury detail of sous-bois and dried spices, roasted red apple and cherry, all sitting beneath the same super-fine toasted almond and macaron top notes as the blanc. The acidity rolls on and on with boundless energy, but the narrow, fine fruit and umami flavour hold on for the ride. This superb, serious rosé still has considerable life ahead of it.

At this age, the wine shows its maturity and richness. Dominated by a toasty, nutty character, the Champagne is underpinned by acidity and the merest hints of apple and red fruits. The wine is very ready to drink.