Telmont : Réserve de la Terre 2017

Pouring a deep golden hue, the 2017 Champagne Reserve De La Terre Brut is 66% Chardonnay and the rest Meunier and comes from 3.5 hectares of the estate's organic vineyard. Powerful and exuberant in its aromatic profile, it opens to notes of golden pineapple, vanilla, Meyer lemon preserve, and brioche. Full-bodied and ripe through the palate, with a rounded mouthfeel and notes of peach yogurt, fruit cocktail, honeyed citrus, and candied ginger, it’s drinking well now and will drink well over the next 6-8 years. Philosophically, I love where they’re going with this cuvée, although 2017 is a tough vintage, so it may not have tremendous longevity, but it’s in a good place to enjoy at the moment. 6744 bottles were produced, and it saw 5.9 grams per liter dosage. No sulfites were added, and it has a traditional roped cork closure.

Dominated by Chardonnay, with a top up of Meunier, this is a ripe, full-throated Champagne, with minerality and crisp white fruits. It has a finely textured character that provides a fine canvas for the wine's fruit. The only complaint: the stupid rope cage on the bottle to restrain the cork. Drink now.