René Gabriel
Back in 1992, a minor sensation! Powerful, explosive bouquet; lush, exotic, with a toasted new-oak note alongside a delicate hint of botrytis—tempting, ripe. Compact on the palate; mouth-filling richness of marzipan, almonds and hazelnut fat, with very intense retronasal aromatics. A majestic wine, especially considering its price. Drunk a year later with Christian Moueix at the Hostellerie de Plaisance in St. Emilion: strong icewine note, not surrounded by fruit as ripe as in other great vintages, but with a glorious interplay of acidity and sweetness; a kind of “Mosel-Yquem.” An unparalleled discovery. 97: What is Huzlenbrot? It’s a kind of pear bread, but quite different. A family recipe that Maria Manser absolutely refused to reveal that evening. Yet this bread paired superbly with the 84 Yquem, which her son Ernst Manser served alongside it. Hardly anything written down—but plenty of Huzlenbrot eaten! 98: Medium, straw-yellow color. Fresh bouquet with bergamot running through it; decidedly peppery. On the palate: molasses, mirabelles, good balance, juicy flow. Enormously enjoyable now, though perhaps with rather limited aging potential (18/20). 01: To round off an unforgettable evening of wine, Robi Infanger of Hotel Engelberg in Engelberg opened this dreamlike sweet wine: golden-yellow color. Open, sweet, straw-tinged bouquet with an extreme amount of dried apricots, a touch of saffron, overripe nectarines and a wide-ranging botrytis that was not yet accompanied by citrus notes. On the palate too, a broad interplay between high ripeness and remaining freshness. Let no one claim that the 1984 vintage in Sauternes was a fiasco! 09: Medium gold with mustard-yellow reflections. Notes of Pertinax, saffron and dried chamomile, virtually no botrytis. On the palate: stewed mirabelles, soft acidity, finely perceptible bitter notes. More of a cheese wine than a dessert wine. Very well done for this difficult vintage. (18/20). 13: Impériale bottle. Orange-gold, not particularly brilliant. Bread drink, soaked gelatin, caramel, brioche, yeasty nuances, dried unsulfured apricots, Izmir figs, molasses, a touch of Pertinax. On the palate: light molasses, soft contours, lots of gelatin again, a lovely, harmonious sweetness, but the expected interplay isn’t there. Despite the name Yquem on the label, it’s simply not a truly great Sauternes. But you don’t expect that from an ’84 either. So it’s fair to assume it is still the best sweet Bordeaux from this difficult vintage. 17/20 drink, with no hurry.