Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2023

Expressive, smoky, floral, dark-fruited, very deep; dense on the palate, lots of drive, not an ounce of fat, top structured, with breed, bite and a very fine length, saline on the finish. Very classic.

Lovely vibrant purple colour in the glass. Fragrant and lifted, a combination of sweet, ripe and fresh blackcurrant and black cherries on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate. Smooth and so silky, yet rich too, with depth and weight but not too much. I love the texture — definitely grippy and filling, it coats the mouth with a crushed velvet feel; you sense the ripeness but there’s such lift and effortless purity of fruit that it feels fresh too. No extra fat, but equally not too lean, not strict at all, as many are. Not hollow, not light, there’s no let-up. Juicy cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry with lots of liquorice on the finish. Feels well crafted. Maybe not as immediately moreish as some, but this is really well made. Feels elegant and stylish. 7 pH. 89 IPT. Ageing 18 months, 100% new oak. 12% press.

Flowers, mint, cocoa, espresso, black cherries, blackberries, plum sauce, and Asian spices create the aromatic perfume. On the palate, the texture is elegant. There is a supple, creamy character to the fruit that is hard to find in 2023. The berries are ripe, clean, and pure, with a racy freshness, which is the key to the vintage. The long, classic, exquisite finish feels refined as it crosses your palate and lingers. The finish holds your attention for close to 50 seconds. Ducru Beaucaillou continues its unstoppable roll of fabulous vintages. Produced from blending 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% Merlot. Drink from 2030-2065.

Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate rim brightening. Fresh orange zest, ripe heart cherry, blackberry confit, delicate floral notes, inviting bouquet, red berry nuances. Juicy, elegant, red heart cherry, fine tannins, fresh acidity, salty on the finish, lingers well, delicate extract sweetness in the aftertaste, has length and certain ageing potential.

Glass-staining violet. A serious Ducru, delivered with precision and balance, with plenty of concentration and a slow, long build, layered, fine and sappy tannins. Proof again that this is a great Cabernet year in this corner of Bordeaux, less velvet concentration than the 2022 Ducru perhaps, but more finesse and packed full of nuance, and a saline, mouthwatering finish. 41 hl/ha yield, 100% new oak, with long seasoning of up to five years, nine different coopers.