Château Lafite-Rothschild 2006

Plum, sweet tobacco and blackberry aromas follow through to a full body, offering a tight, chewy palate, yet with polished, refined tannins. Very long and caressing. This turns into a muscular and toned young wine. Gets better and better with age. Best after 2014. 23,330 cases made.

This seems a bit foursquare to me: somewhat stolid, without the brilliancy to the fruit or the generosity one hopes for from Lafite. The texture is surprisingly tannic and somewhat reserved. It shows the breed and style of the house without the excitement of the better vintages. Let’s hope it opens up with time. A challenging year, with a cool growing season following a warm spring and rain in September. 42% of the harvest went into the grand vin. The final blend is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

The aromas of blue fruit, iodine, sweet tobacco and lavender follow through nicely to the palate that’s medium-bodied with fine, firm tannins and a long, cool finish. Still a little tight, but shows great finesse and pedigree. Just starting to open now.

Tightly knit, as you would expect at only 9 years of age, this blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot opens with an earthy nose of forest floor, cedar chest, smoke, tobacco, and cedar wood. Full-bodied, structured, and showing a crisp, firm yet elegant and ripe Cabernet Sauvignon character, with the tannins and concentration to age, this demands another 10–20 years before the fun starts.

Deep, almost black garnet-purple. Complex black-berried bouquet, subtle perfumed spice, a hint of rock candy, fruitcake notes, traces of mint, black currant, smoke, leather, truffle, somehow reminiscent of a Harlan Estate, with an affinity to a truly great Napa Cabernet. Grand entry on the palate, Cabernet markers clothed exclusively in black fruit, again showing dramatic depth, a multi-layered, magnificent astringency, black cocoa beans, currants, plenty of licorice, tannins that are still a bit dry, perhaps even a touch firm, yet lending this soothing wine a gigantic aging potential. Not particularly fine, rather a very reserved Pauillac. And seldom has a Lafite been so close to a Latour in taste.

82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 46 hl/ha. Deep, almost black garnet-purple. Complex black-berry bouquet with subtle, perfumed spice, a hint of rock candy, fruitcake notes, traces of mint, black currant, smoke, leather, truffle; on the nose it somehow recalls a Harlan Estate, giving it an affinity with a truly great Napa Cabernet. Grand entry on the palate, the Cabernet markers are exclusively dressed in black fruit, again showing dramatic depth, layered, magnificent astringency, dark cocoa beans, currants, plenty of licorice; the tannins are (still) a bit dry and perhaps even somewhat firm, but they endow this reassuring wine with gigantic aging potential. Not particularly fine, rather a very reserved Pauillac. Rarely has a Lafite been so close to a Latour in terms of taste!

Dense, silky, deep, complex, warm bouquet with mint, cedar, black tea, currants, dark berries, truffle. Dense, elegant, multi-layered palate with very good aromatics, plenty of very fine tannins, silky, dense structure, cedar, dried fruits, leather. Very long, dense, aromatic, elegant finish with excellent lingering aromas. 19/20 2016 - 2035

Logo on the cork: inverted T (Trescases) Dark, intense, beautiful color, barely evolved. Nose too discreet, fruity, but without the lift we hoped for. Palate with a caressing, medium body that develops sapid, with a creamy texture, flavorful, fine tannins, and a very beautiful, refined finish that lifts the score. It’s very good!

As so often with Lafite, it is power that marks this wine. That, and density of texture. The additional element in this vintage, and at this stage of the wine's development, is a dominant wood element. The vanilla and tannins from the wood match well with the concentrated tannins of the fruit, which is dark, dense and tight. This is a wine for long-term aging: in 15 years this will have superb richness.

One of the fabulous surprises of my tastings—although I suggested last year it could jump in quality—the 2006 Lafite Rothschild is a great, great wine made from a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. Tasted from barrel, it reminded me of their successful 1988, but it is dramatically superior to that vintage. Frankly, it may turn out to be as good as the 2005, which across Bordeaux is a far greater vintage than 2006. Lafite’s severe selection (42% made it into the grand vin) resulted in a full-bodied wine boasting an extraordinary perfume of charcoal, truffles, pencil lead shavings, and sensationally sweet, ripe black currant and cedar notes. A wine of extraordinary intensity, texture, and depth, with silky tannins as well as awesome concentration, this has turned out to be a remarkable Lafite Rothschild that should be drinkable much earlier than the 2005, yet age for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2014–2035+.