Château Léoville Las Cases 2008

This is loaded for the vintage, with layer upon layer of crushed blackberry, fig paste and mulled black currant, offset by smoldering tobacco, charcoal and anise notes. The finish is all iron and roasted earth for now, with the density to be among the longest-lived wines of the vintage. Best from 2013 through 2023. 14,583 cases made.

Firm, rich tannins quietly declare their confidence – this is not yet at its real drinking window as the structure will require another five years to soften. The emphasis is clearly on the primary Cabernet, with an attack that focuses on cassis and the finish on menthol. This is Médoc personified, showing graphite notes, forest floor and tobacco, barely revving out of the gate.

Super racy and balanced. Masses of licorice and currants, intense aromas. Full and very silky with an intensity of fruit. Reminds me of the 1996. Best after 2015.

Already showing secondary nuances of olives, herbs, truffle, cedar chest, lead pencil and barbecue smoke on the nose. The wine is full-bodied, firm, tannic, classically styled and still youthful. Another 5–10 years will bring more softness and development.

One of the most classic, regal wines of the vintage, the 2008 Léoville Las Cases is made from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot. Possessing an incredible Cabernet character in its graphite, crushed rock, green tobacco, and crème de cassis-like fruit, this beauty is medium to full-bodied, has integrated acidity, a deep, layered texture, and a distinct minerality and salinity on the finish. It’s only now entering the early stages of its drinking window, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see it become one of the longest-lived wines of the vintage. It should hit its prime in another 4–5 years and keep for 30 years or more.

Straight, linear, dense, lovely velvety texture, very fine tannins, great length.

Great to taste this alongside the other two names from this trilogy of St Juliens that once formed the vast Lionville estate. In 1855, Las Cases was owned by Théodore Galhaud, a prominent Bordeaux wine merchant. It's right on brand in 2008, muscular and brooding, and a little reserved, needs serious coaxing, and I would give two to three hours in a carafe to uncurl those bilberry and blackcurrant fruits that sit alongside pencil lead, cigar box, slate, all thos classic St Julien signatures that this property delivers so consistently. 50% new oak, Delon family owners in 2017 (as they had been throughout the 20th century).