Château Lespault-Martillac 2023

Plenty of oak on the nose, tobacco and vanilla over dark fruit; a soft palate, perfectly judged tannins, the oak is well integrated, very clean, with rounded edges and a pleasantly long finish. Modern in style, it will be enjoyable early.

Tasted twice, and I am sold on this wine’s light fruit-basket aromatics with tobacco leaf and dark chocolate, all rather savoury. Rather mouth-coating with somewhat tight tannin, but ageing in barrel — 35% new oak — will smooth that out, and I think this will be lovely upon release.

Delivers on En Primeur promise, this has a finely boned tannic architecture, great quality, a little subdued right now, old school with black fruit character, austerity pretty high. Owned by Jean-Claude Bolleau but farmed and vinified entirely by the Bernard family of Domaine de Chevalier. 35% new oak for ageing.

Score: 86–88. The nose is ambitious, with gentle yet serious oak that gains intensity on the palate and cannot mask the fruit and a healthy dose of acidity.

Olivier Bernard (domaine de Chevalier) took over this estate under a leasehold in 2009. “A gem,” he says: “a dome of gravel with great potential and old vines that had been well planted.” This wine has chosen generosity and charm as its guiding principle. And it succeeds! Everything is seductive, from the bouquet with wafts of small black fruits and warm licorice to the palate, deliciously flavorful, showing a well-managed extraction: the tannins coat nicely and carry flavors of slightly stewed red and black fruits. Voluminous and flattering.

Round, soft, fresh, and fruity, with a strong floral essence, this earthy, tobacco-infused, forward, charming, creamy wine creates the heart and soul of this wine. It is already a pleasure to taste, and will provide pleasure for more than a decade from here. The wine is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. Drink from 2026-2039.

91-93. Barrel Sample. This small estate has produced a wine with rich tannins and structure. Juicy and full of black fruits, the wine's texture brings out the potential of aging.

Ripe, fresh and open in feel, with a slightly soft edge to its mix of black cherry and red currant compote flavors. Light vanilla, rose petal and black tea notes gently cover the refined finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2035. 2,250 cases made.

Notes of dark berries and spices, complemented by a hint of graphite and eucalyptus. The slightly creamy character on the attack paves the way for a harmonious, savoury wine, driven by compact tannins and a touch of austerity that reinforces the expression and the length of the finish. A convincing wine that needs time to relax. A little time ageing in the cellar will help.