Château Rauzan-Gassies 2023

Attractive cassis fruit, herbal-spicy notes; slim palate, somewhat austere tannins, drying and astringent on the finish.

While I like the appealing blackberry and cassis aromas echoed into the attack on the palate, which exhibits some crushed herb and more fruit, the tannins quickly reveal themselves as raw and drying, lacking the charm—subtle or overt—that one would expect especially from a Margaux. Tasted twice with one sample better than the other, but both with drying and somewhat astringent tannins on the finish. This wine has underlying power, but there is a large question mark as to whether the barrel ageing will improve the wine.

Freshness, flowers, ripe fruits, soft tannins, and a relaxed approach work well here. The wine is medium-bodied, with vibrancy in the fruits, and lift in the currant, chocolate, espresso, and licorice-filled finish. Drink from 2028-2043. 91-93 pts.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening on the rim. Dark-berry fruit with tobacco undertones, fresh cherries, orange zest, subtle wood spice. Juicy, complex, a hint of dried fruit, round tannins, a nutty touch on the finish, already approachable.

Flinty edge on opening, luscious autumnal fruits, riven through with rose rose bud, cherry pit, raspberry leaf, crayon, graphite, a ton of character and appellation typicity, good stuff, and easy to recommend. 50% new oak for ageing, Eric Boissenot consultant. Highest Cabernet Sauvignon to date at 89% of the blend. 15% press wine. This is an upgrade, the highest of this tasting, reflecting a wine that is clearly growing into its potential.

Score: 92–94. A rather delightful nose opening with delicate, moreish notes of black cherry, blackcurrant, and crushed raspberry. Like Proust’s madeleine, it takes you back to childhood: a summer’s day when aromas of dry undergrowth, Mediterranean flowers, and warm tar mingle in your nostrils, creating a very elegant bouquet. At the heart of this wine lies a well-concentrated core of ripe fruit, generous yet controlled, with a persistent hint of tar and delightfully firm tannins.

The nose is fruity and offers concentration, depth, a lovely fine, elongated and intense grain, as well as a subtle maceration touch. It displays notes of blackberry and wild strawberry, and more lightly lily/violet, combined with hints of warm gravel, fairly ripe red berries, pepper, spices, nutmeg, saffron, balsamic tones, and a delicate hint of almost fresh wisteria. The palate is beautifully juicy, fruity, and offers smoothness, a mineral backbone, a charming floral side, and good definition. It reveals notes of juicy/pulpy cherry, violet, wisteria, and more lightly fresh red berries and concentrated blackcurrant, combined with touches of racy gravel, as well as discreet hints of pistil, star anise, an almost basaltic nuance, and pepper, with a subtle hint of crushed almond on the finish/persistence. Lovely mellowness. A wine that requires time and patience, yet offers lovely roundness and a spherical feel. Dense, balanced style, deep, with a touch of darkness. Controlled power. A frank and powerful character. Lovely substance and texture on the palate, good minerality and freshness.

Beautiful deep color. Aromatic on the nose and on the palate, but lacking impact on the attack and lacking length on the finish. Given the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, this profile is hard to understand. Blend: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Alcohol by volume: 14%.