Domaine Faiveley : Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand cru 2018

My pick of the Faiveley Grand Cru bottlings in 2018, although several other wines run it close: this is plush and textured but more refined than the same producer's Mazis-Chambertin. Two old-vine parcels have produced a wine that has coped effortlessly with the elements, marrying floral perfume with layers of red and black fruits and effortless concentration. The 50% new wood embellishes rather than dominates the finish.

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the most opulent of the four tasted from this vineyard, with ravishing dark cherry, raspberry and cranberry scents, and touches of tobacco and humidor. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, real structure and density, still quite oaky with a creamy texture that will be subsumed with time. A serious Grand Cru that will require several years in bottle, but mercurial and just losing some of its initial finesse with aeration. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.