Domaine Henri Bourgeois : d'Antan 2022

“D'Antan” translates to “from yesteryear,” referring to the winemaking. This has an inviting, buttery and vanilla-scented nose from fermentation in oak, one-third of which was new. The palate shows Sauvignon flavours of lime and grass, with ripe gooseberry on the finish. Satisfyingly smooth, the wine is fleshy yet balanced, with no excess oak. There is power and minerality here, behind a deceptively soft package of peaches, mango and vanilla oak. The combination of a warm vintage and warm, flinty soils has produced this forward, generous wine that is hugely enjoyable.

A dusting of vanilla baking spice opens on the flinty nose along with apple pie and green pear. Acidity and fruit dance with each other on the palate with summer-warmed orchard fruit taking the lead in the last half of the taste. Drink now through 2030.