Domaine Stéphane Ogier : La Belle Hélène 2016

Nicely packed, with a mix of red currant, black cherry and plum fruit that is crushed together, but still well-delineated, while dried anise, lavender and bay leaf accents add range. A mouthwatering tug of iron comes in at the very end. A stunner. Best from 2024 through 2040. 35 cases imported.

Deep, dark, full, and concentrated, the wine is powerful, firm, tannic, and reserved. You find numerous layers of dark, black, and red fruits with a peppery, smoky, crisp edge, but this is not going to be fun to drink in its youth. It will need at least 15 years of sleep before it is ready to deliver its all.

The 2016 Côte Rôtie La Belle Hélène isn’t far off the 2015, although it has a much more focused, classic style that will be loved by traditionalists. Darker fruits, iron, smoked meats, and foresty, peppery herb-like notes define the aromatics, and it’s full-bodied and balanced, with fine tannins and a great finish. All about finesse and elegance, yet still nicely concentrated, it’s a beautifully complete Côte Rôtie that will evolve for another two decades.

Black fruits, a peppery edge with balsamic notes. The oak is judicious and well integrated, adding complexity without overpowering the fruit. The palate is dense with a compact structure; this firm yet not harsh wine is only beginning to reveal its potential.

Nearly as good as the la Côte Blonde, the 2016 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is plump, round and full in the mouth, yet it lacks some of the former wine's exotic perfume. It still shows lovely purity, with baskets of ripe red berries, a plush, creamy mouthfeel and a long finish. It's a terrific wine that suffers only by comparison. With its terrific concentration and balance, it should drink well for two decades or more.