La Rioja Alta : Gran Reserva 890 2011

Blueberries, violets, tea, dried herbs and a subtle earthy nuance on the nose. The palate is crystalline, with subtle, focused tannins and a faint saline edge. Cohesive and well crafted, with notable aromatic intensity. A wine to return to, exceptional in its balance and precision. Drink or hold.

The 2011 Gran Reserva 890 from Rioja Alta is a fully evolved red. Already mahogany in hue, it's steeped in tertiary complexity. Aromas include wild herbs like thyme and oregano alongside hints of cola and licorice, clearly revealing its maturity. This is silky and vibrant, with tension and finely polished tannins that glide across the palate. There's precision to the development here. This gradually unfurls notes of black olive, a faint tarry edge and a medley of herbal tones. It is a classic Rioja of depth and elegance. The animal whiff on the finish is subtle, more an indication of character than a flaw, adding an extra layer to its sophisticated composition.

A special wine, newly released from an excellent vintage, the 2011 Gran Reserva 890 is a vineyard selection from high-altitude sites and includes 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo. The Mazuelo was co-fermented with the 95% Tempranillo and the wine spent six years in American oak, during which the best barrels were selected for this wine, followed by six years in bottle; bottling took place in July 2018. Tannins attack the front of the medium-bodied palate and then melt, maintaining an enduring freshness through the midpalate and a lengthy finish. There’s a savory, woody character that dominates over subtle red plum and cherry fruit. This should continue to age well for a good 10–12 years.

Fragrant wafts of iodine and eucalyptus on the nose transition on the palate, where an overtone of roasted vanilla and resin brings rich detail to the flavors of sun-dried black and red cherry, plum sauce, iron, dried mint, and toasted cumin and paprika. An intriguing, savory red, long and supple, integrating a mouthwatering tang of salinity and fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2036. 1,600 cases made, 250 cases imported.

After the otherworldly 2010 comes the 2011 Gran Reserva 890, their longest‑aging red, matured in used American oak barrels for six years and produced only three or four times per decade. It’s mostly Tempranillo with 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo, with the Graciano vinified separately. 2011 was a warm, ripe year, but the wine shows medium ripeness and 14% alcohol, with a pH of 3.7 and 5.8 grams of acidity. It has a tertiary nose, with notes of wet fur, leather, truffles, spices, earth and forest floor, decayed leaves and a hint of smoke. The palate is velvety, with fully resolved tannins and a long, very tasty finish. 60,956 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2016.