Les Griffons de Pichon Baron 2023

Still mineral on the nose, with subtle smoky notes, cassis and blackberry; concentrated and structured on the palate, marked tannins, saline finish. Suitable for ageing.

Lots of Cabernet herbal markers on the nose: blackcurrant leaf, menthol, clove, tobacco, dark chocolate and bramble berries. Rich and deep but smooth and grippy, I love the cool freshness here, really saline and mineral—graphite, wet stones and pencil lead. A controlled wine, well defined, harmonious, nothing sticking out, with lifted acidity. Quite lean, and prominent minerality on the finish gives some tension and compaction, but I like the weight and think this will age well. 3.8 pH. 7% press wine. Aging 15 months, 50% new oak. 21% of production.

57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. 21% of the production. Cask sample. Fresh and aromatic with blueberry notes and energy on the palate. Lighter tannins, so not for the long haul, but it should drink well early. (JL)

On the floral side, with accents of espresso, mint, chocolate, cassis, and blackberries at the core of the bouquet. On the medium-bodied palate, the wine is elegant, fresh, and chewy. The red berries are soft, refined, bright, crisp, and chewy. This is a perfect example of a modern-styled classic Pauillac, focused on its vibrancy, length, and freshness. The wine was created from a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. This is the highest percentage of Cabernet ever used in the blend. 13.2% ABV, 3.8 pH. Drink from 2028–2042. 92–94 pts.

Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Ripe cassis, dark cherry fruit, delicate hints of fig and nougat, candied orange zest underneath. Complex, full-bodied, blackberry confit, supporting tannins, mineral, subtle sweetness on the finish, a savoury food companion.

Delicate bouquet, red and blue berries, tobacco leaf and graphite. On the firm palate, a gripping tannic framework, underlying breed and a muscular body. Focused finish with elderberry, walnut and a crumbly astringency. Rounded.

Score: 92–94. The nose is dominated by penetrating aromas of ripe red fruits—bright and succulent—with a spicy touch. The attack on the palate is like a burst of energy that explodes across the palate, bursting with juice, before an elegant, more restrained finish.

Intense, the bouquet of Griffons clearly underscores its authenticity, rooted in a place and its terroir, with a compelling symbiosis between freshness and full expression as the common thread. The fruity nuances come through in notes of stone fruit and black berries such as blackberry and blueberry, while subtle hints of graphite, cocoa nibs and even a touch of camphor add further complexity. Carried by compact tannins, Griffons stands out with a serenity worthy of its big brother; it suggests qualities also found in Pichon. The compact tannins provide a well-framed drive, while the structuring acidity tempers the dominant pull of power, without in any way curbing the wine’s overall conquering ambitions. So much character, detail and brilliance in this wine.

Fresh and focused, with lightly taut, herb-flecked cassis and bitter plum fruit zipped up with an iron accent on the finish. Pauillac 101. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2031. 6,360 cases made.

I had given it “my best En Primeur score” and its fine standing is confirmed. Deep, intense colour. A very aromatic, fruity, subtle nose, becoming creamier with aeration. Supple on entry, flavoursome on the mid-palate with a lovely texture; the wine moves forward juicy, with real class through the palate, even if it finishes on a slightly tannic note, though without any harsh edges. A stunning whole, particularly hard to spit. A quality level similar to 2022. Bravo!

A solid, textured wine with power from the Cabernet Sauvignon and black currant fruit from the Merlot. Its black coffee aroma and sense of potential are palpable. Drink this solid wine from 2030.