M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2022

Like much wine from Chapoutier this year, the 2022 Ermitage l'Ermite is brooding, slowly unfurling with notes of licorice, violet, bacon and smoke mingled with carnal/animal-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, rich and dense, it's concentrated with a structured, grippy tannic frame complemented with a muscular mid-palate and a firm, licorice and carnal-inflected finish. Despite being somewhat dry and rustic, the telluric power of the terroir allows this wine to remain approachable and distinctive, giving it a balance and control that might elude other wines under similar conditions.

Smoke, flint and petrichor notes – very L’Ermite. Remarkably round and full for L'Ermite considering the fairly low alcohol. Intense, zingy acidity and great mineral drive. A crunchy, mineral and long finish, with enjoyably angular tannins. Huge energy and verve, undulating like a soundwave. Almost a caricature of L'Ermite, and will last for decades.

Cask sample. Ground coffee and earthy graphite notes on the nose, intense notes of crushed violet and rose petal as well as a meaty and savoury note. Really powerful mid palate with a concentrated and super-intense fruit core that is packed full of fruit, spice, lavender, meat and game. The tannins are compact, tightly wound and driving the core of exceptional fruit. So much potential but I expect this to shut down for a while. (AC)

The intensely perfumed 2022 Ermitage L'Ermite walks onto the stage with a bang, screaming from the glass with pronounced black plum, black cherry compote, cassis pastilles, dried violet and cedar notes. Nuanced graphite adds a ferrous layer. Classic to the core, the full-bodied 2022 is a standout L'Ermite that’s firmly built like a brick wall, demanding at least until 2030 before showcasing its full potential to anyone lucky enough to own a bottle or two. A long, savory finish wraps it up nicely.

Steeped plum and fig paste start off in this muscular, broad version, filigreed with incense, smoked lavender and ganache. Mineral density takes over, with singed iron bringing real depth to the finish, plus firm yet nicely polished tannins. Alder smoke lingers on and on. Seriously concentrated — yet never heavy. Outstanding. Best from 2026 through 2042. 4 cases imported.