M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2021

A succulent, lush white, with a honeyed edge to its notes of Meyer lemon and white peach, streaked with saline and a brush of cedar polish. There's a racy edge to the finish, which shows precision and energy as well as density. Drink now through 2038. 10 cases imported.

Fresh pear and a touch of honey add to what is already a full-bodied, powerful expression on the palate, really intense and driving with plenty of extract. There’s a great sense of freshness and power, but no great fatness on the palate – it’s relatively lean in fact, and should live for a long time. Pure Marsanne over 50 years old, whole-bunch pressed and half fermented in demi-muids, half in vats. The vineyards are on pebbles, clay and some loess, facing south.

What an extraordinary interplay of smoky fresh pineapple and stony mineral character this super-concentrated but medium-bodied white Rhone has. The south and the north of wine (in the widest sense) meet in this singularity of the marsanne grape. Gigantic minerality in the totally focused and extremely long, pure finish. From a steep, south-facing slope. Enormous aging potential. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Showing a little less reduction than De L'Orée from the same vintage, the 2021 Ermitage Blanc Le Méal hits all the right spots. Hawthorn, honeysuckle, white peach, cedar, yellow apple and lemon peel confer striking complexity. Full-bodied, concentrated and focused, the 2021 really comes alive on the palate, where spot-on balance and lifting freshness culminate in a persistent finale. The 2021 is an Ermitage Blanc of remarkable energy and tension.

Largely in the same style, the 2021 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc brings a touch more richness, and it would pass undetected in a lineup of top white Burgundies. Orange blossom, crushed citrus, honeyed flowers, and spicy notes all define the aromatics, and it's medium-bodied, with a fresh, focused mouthfeel and a beautiful finish. As always, this is all Marsanne, yet the percentage of new oak has steadily been reduced, with the 2021 brought up 70% in 25% new demi-muids and the balance in stainless steel. It too will drink well for 10-15 years.

Kicking off with notes of toasted grain and honeyed citrus, the 2021 Ermitage le Méal Blanc has lots going on, adding exotic stone fruit and pineapple. It's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and ripe, then turns a bit austere on the dry, chalky finish. While it lacks the overall harmony and elegance of the De l'Oree this vintage, it's still pretty compelling stuff.