M. Chapoutier : Le Pavillon 2001

Gorgeous, with velvety, plush black currant and plum fruit supported by very suave vanilla bean- and mocha java-tinged toast. Dense and long on the finish, with the toast caressing the fruit all the way through. Aromatic, richly flavored and balanced. Best from 2005 through 2014. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 600 cases made.

Saturated red-ruby. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, boysenberry, black olive tapenade, licorice, coffee and smoked meat. Wonderfully opulent and voluptuous in the mouth, with a texture like liquid silk. Coats your mouth, cheeks and whatever other surfaces it can find. Finishes with extraordinarily fine tannins and great sweetness and persistence. The best bottle of Pavillon I've tasted in at least a decade.

No age is apparent in the glossy, fat colour that clings to the glass, with its iridescent nuances. Medium concentration on the palate, but with considerable tension on the soft bitterness of the finish. Lengthens with notes of dried herbs and candied lemon. The wine finishes on a subtle natural brilliant oxidation.

Sourced from 4ha of 65-year-old vines on granitic soils in the lieu-dit of Les Bessards. It’s mature now, showing a very gamey character on the nose along with some leaf mulch and cigar tobacco. It’s still very full and richly fruited on the palate, with furry tannins that are perhaps just a little dry – not the most elegant tannic texture. There’s a saline, searching finish of good length. It’s a little gruff compared to the sleeker incarnation of today’s Le Pavillon, but nonetheless is very Hermitage and full of interest.