M. Chapoutier : Le Pavillon 2004

Shows a supertight focus, with black currant, plum and blackberry fruit harnessed by supple tannins, dark cocoa and a buried minerality. The long finish really fleshes out nicely in the glass. Best from 2008 through 2017. 555 cases made, 85 cases imported.

Ruby-red. Vibrant raspberry and cherry skin scents are enlivened by zesty mineral and floral accents. Structured and chewy, with well-focused red fruit flavors, excellent depth and a graceful, silky texture on the finish. There's a striking and impressive mix of bright and rich tones here. This comes from the lieu-dit Bessards.

All of the single-vineyard Ermitages turned out as good as I had hoped, possibly even better. In short, they are among the strongest wines one could hope for in this vintage. The 2004 Ermitage Le Pavillon is outstanding, but certainly not one of the most compelling wines Michel Chapoutier has made. It is dense, dark ruby/purple, and seems more austere and backward than Le Meal, but I still think these are 15- to 20-year wines as opposed to the normal 50+ that the top vintages of these single-vineyard Ermitages produce. Dense with black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, sweet blackberries, and white chocolate, this is an elegant, mid-weight Pavillon that should be drinking well in about 5–6 years and last 15–20. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

This was Chapoutier's initial microcuvée of Hermitage, bottled for the first time in 1989. The 2004 version is smoky and gamy, accented by pepper and a hint of rhubarb, but lush red fruit flavors take over on the palate, gliding easily across in a creamy mass that turns chewy on the finish. Drink 2010–2020.