M. Chapoutier : Les Granits 2023

From the granitic soils around Tournon, Marsanne vines around 60 years old. Certified organic and biodynamic. Cask sample. Intense, rich aroma of nutty pears and creamy, lightly toasty oak, with just a tiny hint of struck match. Both full of fruit and savoury/spiced. Utterly inviting. On the palate, lovely depth of honeyed citrus (yet bone dry) and fresh pears. The texture is beautifully rounded. Deep rather than heavy, with good freshness on the long finish. The acidity is more evident than in the Ermitage whites. Harmonious and flavourful if not subtle. (JH)

The 2023 Saint-Joseph Blanc Les Granits opens with captivating notes of chamomile, wet stone, golden apple, white flowers and a hint of lemon flesh. Gracing a medium-bodied palate with vibrant energy, the 2023 concludes with outstanding clarity on the precise finish.

Coming from the granite soils of the appellation’s namesake vineyard, the lieu-dit Saint Joseph, the 2023 Saint Joseph Les Granits Blanc shows a medium gold hue and a touch of reduction in its ripe citrus, stone-fruit, and brioche-driven aromatics. Medium-bodied, with a fresh, focused mouthfeel, terrific texture, and outstanding length, it’s made from 100% Marsanne and aged 85% in demi-muids and foudre (10% new) with 15% in stainless steel for 11 months. Drink 2025–2030.

Touch of flinty reduction on the nose. Not full-bodied – it moves fast in the mouth – but has real impact, intensity and good acidity. Confit citrus peels, honeysuckle, so sapid and delicious. More positive reduction than in previous vintages, but it works well and will extend its life span even longer than a typical year. Such a brilliant wine.