M. Chapoutier : Les Granits 2024

Floral aromas in a distinctly honeysuckle style, with subtle notes of red apple too. On the palate it’s stony, granitic and mineral, with a lovely fresh, cleansing sensation on the tongue. An exceptional vintage. Not as reductive as the past few years, more on the fruit. A must-buy. From lieu-dit St-Joseph, east-facing.

Cask sample. 100% Marsanne on granitic terraces to the south of Tournon. Each plot of land is harvested several times by hand. Whole-bunch pressed, and a moderate amount of SO2 is used. Light settling. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 85% in demi-muids (of which 10% new) and stainless-steel vats (15%). Aged on lees for 11 months with occasional stirring. pH 3.56, TA 2.62 g/l (sulphuric). Smells rich, spicy and golden, very slightly flinty/toasty. On the palate, an attractive bitterness of apricot kernel adds to the already impressive freshness for a variety that is not always fresh. Firmly textured, moderate concentration. Chewy, satisfying, with incipient complexity and a salty-sour-fresh finish. (JH)

Coming from the namesake vineyard of the appellation, the 2024 Saint Joseph Les Granits Blanc is sourced from steep, granitic, south-facing hillside vineyards just outside of Mauve. Medium gold-hued, it offers beautiful aromatics of honeyed orange, quince, mint, and crushed stone that soar from the glass. It's medium-bodied and has a pure, layered, graceful mouthfeel, bright acidity, and a clean, focused finish. It should gain some weight with a few years of bottle age, and it's clearly outstanding. Drink 2026-2033.