William Fèvre : Chablis 1er cru "Vaulorent" Domaine 2022

There are some 7,000 bottles of the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a cuvée where Didier Séguier permits himself the luxury of using only Fèvre's best old-vine parcels and which is always one of the high points of the range. Wafting from the glass with notes of citrus oil, oyster liquor, white flowers and hazelnuts, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a long, saline finish.

Green apple and passion fruit aromas with notes of oyster shell and smoky reduction; there's a compelling purity to the aromas and surprising Chablis typicity, despite the hot conditions of the vintage. As one might imagine, this is a substantial wine, yet there's still enough tension on the palate to bring everything into balance. The grapes are from eight domaine-owned parcels totalling 3.63ha of the 16.26ha of plantings in Vaulorent registered in 2023. Organic.

Tank sample. Intense citrus and more spicy than mineral, though a stone-dust chalkiness appears with air. Deep, rich, generous and long but still deliciously fresh. Excellent balance. (JH)

It is built on concentrated fruit with a strong saline grip, a very pure wine, yet the flesh of the vintage is well expressed. Lovely finish with bitters reminiscent of lemon zest.

Aromas of underripe Anjou pear, citrus oil, delicate acacia blossom, and a fine veil of saline minerality evoke a restrained, elegant expression of Chablis. On the palate, bright acidity and chalky minerality frame subtle layers of orchard fruit and honeysuckle, tapering into a quiet, sea-kissed finish. This is effortlessly enjoyable now but has so much yet to unveil. Hold through 2030.