Louis Roederer : Cristal Vinothèque 1997

The color has evolved and the palate is tired, showing dates, fruit, and overly pushed oxidation. It’s dull and fatigued; the whole is unconvincing, lacking energy, with a fleeting finish and a lazy aftertaste, and a soft texture. The wine is worn out.

Vivid acidity and fine, pointillism-like texture is the canvas on which flavors of dried apricot, tangerine peel, browned sugar, chopped hazelnut and fennel seed are finely layered. There’s a strong mineral presence as well, with an overtone of oyster shell and a racy streak of salinity echoing on the satinlike finish. Mouthwatering. -- Non-blind Cristal Vinothèque retrospective (June 2025). Drink now through 2040.