Château Cantenac Brown 2023

Restrained, very noble, deep, dark-fruited, playful; crisp, like biting into a basket of fresh berries, plenty of tannins, silkily woven, builds pressure, remains highly elegant; has gained in precision thanks to the new cellar facilities.

Subtle floral aromatics led me—on both occasions I tasted it—to write “pretty wine.” When you think of Margaux, you want florals—and you get them in spades here. The attack is all finesse and elegance, with fairly racy tannins and subtle depth expressed in ripe dark and red fruit, yet understated. This is the first vintage the estate has made wine with its new cellar facilities, which have played a role in both selection and tannin extraction—very important in 2023. The finish is marked by fruit with more floral elements, although I note a touch of rawness in the tannins. In a more successful vintage, you wouldn’t have that impression, and you’d see superior mid-palate depth and less restraint, but overall, a lovely Margaux, and barrel aging will smooth all the edges. At just over 38 hl/ha, a decent yield for the appellation.

The 2023 Cantenac Brown opens with gorgeous, captivating aromatics. Crushed flowers, dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and dried autumn leaves are some of the notes that grace this elegant, super-refined Grand Vin. This is the first vintage made in the new cellar, a facility equipped with twice as many tanks as the old winery, in different sizes that allow for smaller picks. The 2023 is a beautiful wine done in a new style for the château, one that showcases an added touch of finesse. Give this a few years to come into its own. Today, Cabernet tannins are a touch imposing.

Deep, full-bodied, and round, the wine is packed with black cherries, smoke, licorice, blackberry, espresso, and flowers. Sporting a dark hue, the intense aromatic profile is just the start. The palate is opulent, powerful, rich, and intense, yet remains light on its feet thanks to its freshness and lift. The finish is long, intense, energetic, and rich, with layers of sweet, polished, luscious fruits. 2023 is the first vintage produced in the new, state-of-the-art gravity cellars, which really made a difference this year. The wine is a blend of 71.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 1.5% Petit Verdot. Drink from 2029-2055.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening. Fresh wild berries, fine cassis, floral touch, inviting bouquet. Juicy, elegant, fresh cherries, fine tannins, good freshness, mineral and good persistence, a subtle food wine.

This will age brilliantly but already has a ton of depth and concentration, creamy blue and black fruits, spice, mint, flowers and just a ton of pleasure. As I said En Primeur, this is an excellent example of a 94 point 'buy' signal. José Sanfins director, Tristan Le Lous owner. First year in the new 100% gravity-fed cellar.

Score: 94–96. A dark, deep, concentrated nose with great restraint, revealing notes of raspberry jam on toast, stewed wild blackberries, lilies, and black licorice. On the palate, the wine is feather-light, ultra-precise, delicate, with a hint of sappy flowers on the finish. The finish is fresh, saline, mouthwatering, unveiling porcelain-like tannins that leave barely a powdery veil on the palate.

The harmony between oak ageing, black berries, minerality and spices says a great deal about the level of precision Cantenac Brown has achieved in recent years. Carried by powerful, smooth and velvety tannins, the wine also benefits from the valuable support of its acidity, which enhances the fresh character of the finish. An elegant, savoury, subtle and persistent wine that gains even more definition and energy as it opens up. A very fine success.

The nose is beautifully ripe, precise and elegant, offering aromatic density, depth and fine concentration. It reveals notes of bigarreau cherry and roasted, juicy red berries, with hints of almost thyme blossom, pepper, graphite and fine toasty accents. The palate is beautifully juicy, fruity, fresh, mineral, balanced, well-defined and precise, delivering indulgence, accuracy, silkiness, a lifted, airy feel and bright, shining fruit. It shows notes of bigarreau cherry, fresh liquorice and, more delicately, juicy/pulpy raspberry and bright small berries, combined with a touch of thyme flowers and infusion, as well as fine hints of toast, graphite, star anise and nutmeg. A lovely touch of softness and iodine on the finish. Fine chalky tannins with a fine grain, supple and gourmand. Lovely juiciness, suppleness, freshness, and a refined sense of detail and harmony.

This is a restrained style, but there’s a detailed core of red currant, black cherry and blackberry coulis flavors, all stitched with alder and sandalwood and dotted with iris and savory accents throughout. Fresh and finely beaded acidity provides the matrix. Everything is in proportion and shows precision as this plays out prettily through the lengthy finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2038. 9,000 cases made.

Dense purple/plum-hued, the 2023 Château Cantenac Brown is checks in as 71.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 1.5% Cabernet Franc that was aged 15 months in 60% new French oak. Solid, powerful aromatics of cassis and darker berries are supported by spicy wood, graphite, and sappy floral-like nuances. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has a nicely concentrated mouthfeel, ripe yet present tannins, and outstanding length. It's rock solid and brings impressive depth and richness in the vintage. Hide bottles for 3-4 years and enjoy over the following two decades. Drink 2029-2046.

Deep, intense, beautiful colour. Very aromatic nose, with lovely notes of black fruits and a hint of smokiness. Delicate on the attack, very aromatic through the mid-palate, with finely judged tannic support, the wine glides into the finish where it leaves a lovely black-fruit flavour on the palate. It’s very good.

The 2023 Cantenac Brown represents a fine vintage to inaugurate the estate's new winery, offering up aromas of sweet cassis, violets and charcoal, framed by new oak. Medium- to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit framed by rich, sweet tannins, this is a rather muscular but nicely balanced wine built to age with grace. In addition to the estate's new winery, equipped with more vats to permit parcel-by-parcel vinification, the 2023 also benefits from the inclusion of several parcels of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon on the plateau of Margaux that were acquired a few years ago.