Château Durfort-Vivens 2023

An aroma to dive into, to dream with—I want to forget time for a moment; dark fruit, peppery spice, clear cassis, cherry, floral notes; on the palate, an unparalleled bundle of fruit, compact, powerful, yet feather-light, full of energy and drive, wild and yet calm, tannins carved from stone, great harmony, very long finish. Excellent.

Deep dark nose, vibrant and rich, gorgeous floral scents with dark chocolate, plum, black cherry and blackcurrant. Good vibrancy and energy to this. A little sharp at first, then settles and straightens. Tannins are well worked, nothing harsh or austere, just bright and in the high-acidity style. I like this a lot, it has finesse and elegance, gorgeous texture to the tannins, fine but ripe, giving a soft chew. Excellent movement and overall charm. Lots to like here and I just love the vibrancy, the sense of weight, precision and purity. Great stuff. 15% press wine.

Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Fresh cassis, ripe blackberry, a hint of black cherry, delicate orange zest. Complex, powerful, full-bodied, fresh structure, fine tannins, delicate sweetness on the finish, firm and persistent, overall fresh and promising.

Touch of reduction on first nose, a ton of energy, power, coiled mint, eucalyptus, cloves, pomegranate, liquorice, crayon and squid ink, so much flavour and flesh and expansion, exceptionally good. Harvest September 11 to October 4, 35hl/h yield, 3.66ph, 66% new oak, 33% amphoras for ageing. I said this was right up there with the best of Margaux during my En Primeur tastings, and that translates to a single point upscore at this point.

Score: 94–96. Sensual, luminous aromas of blackcurrant, deep and rich, mingle on the nose with chocolate ganache, all highlighted by an intriguing note of cardamom. Pure and fluid, it unfolds across the palate, enveloping the mouth in a gradual burst of black fruits, structured by powerful brushed-velvet tannins.

The tannins show strongly in this dense wine. It has power while also having charm, giving balance and texture. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, it is firm with a tobacco and spice aroma and the ability to age. Drink from 2030. Organic and biodynamic.

So much elegance, freshness and ripeness in the bouquet of Durfort Vivens 2023, which shows a beautifully balanced aromatic profile with nuances of black berries, pepper and liquorice. Dense on the attack, the wine features compact, fine-grained tannins that gradually gain in breadth and power, while the acidity works in the background, delivering a refreshing yet structuring tension. A generous, harmonious, fresh and persistent wine!

The 2023 Durfort-Vivens is more impressive in bottle than it was as a young barrel sample. Dark and enveloping, the 2023 possesses superb depth and presence from start to finish. Blackberry, licorice, mocha and dried herbs all build in a positively stellar Grand Vin. There's so much to look forward to. Aging was 18 months, 70% in French oak and 30% in amphora.