René Gabriel
72% selected for the Grand Vin. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 38 hl/ha. Extremely dark purple with lilac and black-violet highlights. The bouquet boasts a regal, absolutely noble Cabernet, finest perfumed cassis, licorice and dark fine woods, Brazil-tobacco nuances over a truffly backdrop; I have rarely found so much freshness and such delicate mint on a dark-chocolate base in a Montrose barrel sample. The palate is thoroughly regal as well: aromatic cassis–blueberry extract, again with the same further aromas as on the nose—everything on the nose is transferred one-to-one onto the palate; good muscle that merges into a demanding yet balanced astringency. A great classic, no hint of modernity, but the maximum of what Montrose can do. Among the greatest Montrose ever produced—but not comparable to 1989 and 1990, which were all marked by heat. So perhaps the most perfect “new” Montrose ever. (20/20). Still closed, yet beneath the surface you feel plenty of black plums, black cherries, dried blueberries, pumpernickel bread, black tea and perfectly ripe Cabernet. On the palate compact, demanding; despite enormous tannin reserves, no masochistic astringency; the finish stays in the black spectrum of aromas. A legend! (20/20). 13: Incredibly dense, almost black, impenetrable core. Lots of spice, more spice than fruit at the moment; smoke, truffle, a hint of currants, mocha, dark fine woods, Havana cigar box; extremely profound, reminiscent not a little of its own 2003. On the palate monumental, clearly demanding astringency—not masochistic but insistent; the meaty tannins are wrapped in an initial creaminess, showing the exceptional class of its tannic structure; the finish is almost dramatic with an endlessly long aftertaste. In terms of greatness, perhaps best compared to 1989. But that one unfortunately seems improvised in terms of vinification. This 2009 is absolutely perfect in its craftsmanship. (20/20). 17: At a dinner, a friend brought this far too young Montrose. No matter. With such truly massive wines, it is extraordinarily interesting to follow their evolution. Already at the en primeur tasting I awarded this gigantic, legendary Montrose the maximum score. And it still deserves it today—and likely for the next 50 years! Then we’ll see… (20/20). 19: The color is almost like a barrel sample; black-violet. Although the nose is markedly closed, a beautiful Cabernet imprint enters the bouquet right from the start, profound, adorned with licorice and smoky components, fine woods, black berries. Baroque, with—for the 2009 vintage—a tremendous portion of classicism. Perfect palate entry, a sublime, seemingly endless finish. More Montrose than Saint-Estèphe. More Saint-Estèphe than 2009. Among the 2009s, one of the greatest wines. And among the greatest and best crus, one of the (still) most affordable, as there are still plenty of bottles under 300 francs. (20/20). 21: Rarely has an even far-too-young and so immensely great Montrose already been worth the sin in its youth! (20/20). 22: Dense purple with black reflections at the core. The nose is not yet fully open, but delivers a textbook measure of complexity. Sweet, rock-candy notes, licorice, dried fruits, cassis, black currant. Simply stunning and intoxicating. It already reveals its incredible depth. On the palate it continues seamlessly. A harmony-seeking, perfectly balanced wine with regal, promising, very ripe tannins. Absolutely perfect. It doesn’t get better! It has risen on the market by 10% within 12 months. Not a bad combination for a long-term investment of money and pleasure. (20/20).